fire!
good day they I have a mustang 68 -289 convertible, first registration in Italy in the 68. Here in Italy is very rare. I restored a body and motor. but I have a problem. if I press fastly the gas, from the carburetor born fire, if press slowly, no problems. what can i do?
thank you
thank you
hi latamud,
thank you for your replay.
maybe retard the timing a few degrees - I did it
Another idea, if the distributor condensor is fried it could cause what you described. - I didn't change the distributor (I hope it is a responsable)
On ebay i see it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...94993335QQrdZ1
what do you think?
thank you for your replay.
maybe retard the timing a few degrees - I did it
Another idea, if the distributor condensor is fried it could cause what you described. - I didn't change the distributor (I hope it is a responsable)
On ebay i see it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...94993335QQrdZ1
what do you think?
ORIGINAL: josy
hi latamud,
thank you for your replay.
maybe retard the timing a few degrees - I did it
Another idea, if the distributor condensor is fried it could cause what you described. - I didn't change the distributor (I hope it is a responsable)
On ebay i see it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...94993335QQrdZ1
what do you think?
hi latamud,
thank you for your replay.
maybe retard the timing a few degrees - I did it
Another idea, if the distributor condensor is fried it could cause what you described. - I didn't change the distributor (I hope it is a responsable)
On ebay i see it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...94993335QQrdZ1
what do you think?
I think that this will be a good choice for replacement of your stock points distributor.
Mustang in Italy,,,,,, that is COOL.
I would try to replace the condensor first before completely replacing the distributor. It is the cylinder shaped item in front of the distributor. seen in pic below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-...mZ140077136722
i'm not sure you can run the HEI distributor on a stock/factory ignition.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-...mZ140077136722
i'm not sure you can run the HEI distributor on a stock/factory ignition.
ORIGINAL: latamud
I would try to replace the condensor first before completely replacing the distributor. It is the cylinder shaped item in front of the distributor. seen in pic below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-...mZ140077136722
i'm not sure you can run the HEI distributor on a stock/factory ignition.
I would try to replace the condensor first before completely replacing the distributor. It is the cylinder shaped item in front of the distributor. seen in pic below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-...mZ140077136722
i'm not sure you can run the HEI distributor on a stock/factory ignition.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Musta...QQcmdZViewItem
Of course there are other "electronic" points manufactures now so the research could go on.
I would change the rotor, cap, plug wires and plug at the same time; i.e. a complete tune up.
From the original post, the problem is a backfire throught the carb happening with rapid opening of the throttle. This causes the vacumm advance to kick in. One test would be to simply remove (and block) the vacumm tube to the distributor.
ORIGINAL: highhilleer
I agree with the idea of getting what you got working right first, but that particular set is for a 6 cyl engine. However, it wouldn't be a problem in the US to find the right set. With points you need to set the gap/dwell which is becomming a lost art. Another alternative would be to go with a Pertronix unit. My read of the net is the first generation Pertronix is more reliable than the second generation.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Musta...QQcmdZViewItem
Of course there are other "electronic" points manufactures now so the research could go on.
I would change the rotor, cap, plug wires and plug at the same time; i.e. a complete tune up.
From the original post, the problem is a backfire throught the carb happening with rapid opening of the throttle. This causes the vacumm advance to kick in. One test would be to simply remove (and block) the vacumm tube to the distributor.
ORIGINAL: latamud
I would try to replace the condensor first before completely replacing the distributor. It is the cylinder shaped item in front of the distributor. seen in pic below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-...mZ140077136722
i'm not sure you can run the HEI distributor on a stock/factory ignition.
I would try to replace the condensor first before completely replacing the distributor. It is the cylinder shaped item in front of the distributor. seen in pic below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-...mZ140077136722
i'm not sure you can run the HEI distributor on a stock/factory ignition.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Musta...QQcmdZViewItem
Of course there are other "electronic" points manufactures now so the research could go on.
I would change the rotor, cap, plug wires and plug at the same time; i.e. a complete tune up.
From the original post, the problem is a backfire throught the carb happening with rapid opening of the throttle. This causes the vacumm advance to kick in. One test would be to simply remove (and block) the vacumm tube to the distributor.
The points are always a PIA, and the pertronix conversion costs about $100.00 (I think), and this would need to go into a 40 year old distributor that might be worn out anyway. His solution (HEI) makes sense to me.
Also, the OP needs to keep in mind that the distributor might not be the problem at all, it could be any number of other issues, like possibly an inoperative accelerator pump orif it is a 4 bbl carb, the secondaries might opening too fast(Note for OP, theseare both parts of the carburator)
ORIGINAL: latamud
maybe retard the timing a few degrees. Loosen the distributor and rotate counter-clockwise. Another idea, if the distributor condensor is fried it could cause what you described.
maybe retard the timing a few degrees. Loosen the distributor and rotate counter-clockwise. Another idea, if the distributor condensor is fried it could cause what you described.
Also, if the engine has not been rebuilt, (or rebuiltbefore the last 10 to 15 years)it may have slipped valve timing.
The nylon coated timing gears will almost always fail at between 100,000 miles and 130,000 miles, 39 years ofage might cause the nylon to break downwith less actual useand accelerate thisfailure, but I would check out other stuff out before diving into the timing set.
thank you very much. I'm happy becouse i meet someone that understands something about V8. In Italy is not easy have classic mustang. Parts (i have to buy all in USA and if the part cost 100$ in USA, with transport and tax, i must pay 180$) people think that i'm crazy to drive 5000cc, in Italy the gas costs 1,6 $ for one liter! yours mechanics ever seen the v8.
The just change the rotor, the CAP, plug wires, and the carburetor is new edelbrock 600.
I will try to work on the condenser thanks
bye
The just change the rotor, the CAP, plug wires, and the carburetor is new edelbrock 600.
I will try to work on the condenser thanks
bye


