Carb tuning...
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,089
From:
RE: Carb tuning...
I used an Edelbrock carb for about a year. Thought it worked pretty well. Then I put on a Holley 600 VS. Instantaneous power improvement and much better throttle response....without tuning. I now only run double pumpers, which I found to be much better than the vacuum secondary carbs at higher altitudes.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,195
From:
RE: Carb tuning...
ya i have an edelbrock on mine because that's what it came with...i think its like a 650 or 600 cfm and i will probably end up switching to like a 550 cfm holley wheni run out of stuff to keep me busy.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
RE: Carb tuning...
Simply astounded by some replies here..
None to fond of the E carb either. Get a book on tunning, You can read it there in depth and get correct info.
E carbs DO NOT have a power valve and the only way to open the secondaries faster is to lighten the counter weight on the air valve shaft.. The idle mix screws do NOTHING after even a little throttle angle, they are for the IDLE only. Jets and metering rods are the way to change the fuel curve with an E carb. Unless you can read a plug effectively you will not get the jetting right, possibly close but not right.
Timing is to a point trial and error, the factory setting is a good starting point, but you can still have an inaudible(that means youcant hear it) ping. Inaudible ping will destroy an engine as easily as a very loud one. There are many variables that cause pre ignition, some of them are oil in the cylinders from tires valve seals and rings, heavy load, temperature of air and coolant, combustion chamber design, carbon buildup, altitude, and a few others. Just because one engine can idle around with race gas compression doesnt mean the one in your car can.
Get a book, get educated that way the incorrect info wont screw up your car or cost you more money.
None to fond of the E carb either. Get a book on tunning, You can read it there in depth and get correct info.
E carbs DO NOT have a power valve and the only way to open the secondaries faster is to lighten the counter weight on the air valve shaft.. The idle mix screws do NOTHING after even a little throttle angle, they are for the IDLE only. Jets and metering rods are the way to change the fuel curve with an E carb. Unless you can read a plug effectively you will not get the jetting right, possibly close but not right.
Timing is to a point trial and error, the factory setting is a good starting point, but you can still have an inaudible(that means youcant hear it) ping. Inaudible ping will destroy an engine as easily as a very loud one. There are many variables that cause pre ignition, some of them are oil in the cylinders from tires valve seals and rings, heavy load, temperature of air and coolant, combustion chamber design, carbon buildup, altitude, and a few others. Just because one engine can idle around with race gas compression doesnt mean the one in your car can.
Get a book, get educated that way the incorrect info wont screw up your car or cost you more money.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: Carb tuning...
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
Simply astounded by some replies here..
None to fond of the E carb either. Get a book on tunning, You can read it there in depth and get correct info.
E carbs DO NOT have a power valve and the only way to open the secondaries faster is to lighten the counter weight on the air valve shaft.. The idle mix screws do NOTHING after even a little throttle angle, they are for the IDLE only. Jets and metering rods are the way to change the fuel curve with an E carb. Unless you can read a plug effectively you will not get the jetting right, possibly close but not right.
Timing is to a point trial and error, the factory setting is a good starting point, but you can still have an inaudible(that means youcant hear it) ping. Inaudible ping will destroy an engine as easily as a very loud one. There are many variables that cause pre ignition, some of them are oil in the cylinders from tires valve seals and rings, heavy load, temperature of air and coolant, combustion chamber design, carbon buildup, altitude, and a few others. Just because one engine can idle around with race gas compression doesnt mean the one in your car can.
Get a book, get educated that way the incorrect info wont screw up your car or cost you more money.
Simply astounded by some replies here..
None to fond of the E carb either. Get a book on tunning, You can read it there in depth and get correct info.
E carbs DO NOT have a power valve and the only way to open the secondaries faster is to lighten the counter weight on the air valve shaft.. The idle mix screws do NOTHING after even a little throttle angle, they are for the IDLE only. Jets and metering rods are the way to change the fuel curve with an E carb. Unless you can read a plug effectively you will not get the jetting right, possibly close but not right.
Timing is to a point trial and error, the factory setting is a good starting point, but you can still have an inaudible(that means youcant hear it) ping. Inaudible ping will destroy an engine as easily as a very loud one. There are many variables that cause pre ignition, some of them are oil in the cylinders from tires valve seals and rings, heavy load, temperature of air and coolant, combustion chamber design, carbon buildup, altitude, and a few others. Just because one engine can idle around with race gas compression doesnt mean the one in your car can.
Get a book, get educated that way the incorrect info wont screw up your car or cost you more money.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 551
RE: Carb tuning...
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
Simply astounded by some replies here..
None to fond of the E carb either. Get a book on tunning, You can read it there in depth and get correct info.
E carbs DO NOT have a power valve and the only way to open the secondaries faster is to lighten the counter weight on the air valve shaft.. The idle mix screws do NOTHING after even a little throttle angle, they are for the IDLE only. Jets and metering rods are the way to change the fuel curve with an E carb. Unless you can read a plug effectively you will not get the jetting right, possibly close but not right.
Timing is to a point trial and error, the factory setting is a good starting point, but you can still have an inaudible(that means youcant hear it) ping. Inaudible ping will destroy an engine as easily as a very loud one. There are many variables that cause pre ignition, some of them are oil in the cylinders from tires valve seals and rings, heavy load, temperature of air and coolant, combustion chamber design, carbon buildup, altitude, and a few others. Just because one engine can idle around with race gas compression doesnt mean the one in your car can.
Get a book, get educated that way the incorrect info wont screw up your car or cost you more money.
Simply astounded by some replies here..
None to fond of the E carb either. Get a book on tunning, You can read it there in depth and get correct info.
E carbs DO NOT have a power valve and the only way to open the secondaries faster is to lighten the counter weight on the air valve shaft.. The idle mix screws do NOTHING after even a little throttle angle, they are for the IDLE only. Jets and metering rods are the way to change the fuel curve with an E carb. Unless you can read a plug effectively you will not get the jetting right, possibly close but not right.
Timing is to a point trial and error, the factory setting is a good starting point, but you can still have an inaudible(that means youcant hear it) ping. Inaudible ping will destroy an engine as easily as a very loud one. There are many variables that cause pre ignition, some of them are oil in the cylinders from tires valve seals and rings, heavy load, temperature of air and coolant, combustion chamber design, carbon buildup, altitude, and a few others. Just because one engine can idle around with race gas compression doesnt mean the one in your car can.
Get a book, get educated that way the incorrect info wont screw up your car or cost you more money.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 419
From: Arizona
RE: Carb tuning...
Lets completely rule out Ignition since the Plugs, Wires, Coil, and Distributor (Mallory Unilight Electronic Distributor) are all brand new and I am not the average teenager who is an idiot when it comes to setting the timing and getting the right vacuum port (and factory spec is 6BTDC without vacuum advance hooked up which should be adequate since my engine is stock as far as I know).... now I am not sure weather or not the distributor has a mechanical advance since I didn't check, didn't see one, but the site I ordered it from said it did... I will try a couple different timing settings but I know that its not going to change anything...
What Thumpin said about oil burning could be a possibility since I do burn oil, weather its rings or valve guide seals I don't know.
What Thumpin said about oil burning could be a possibility since I do burn oil, weather its rings or valve guide seals I don't know.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,007
From: Citrus County, FL
RE: Carb tuning...
The distributor also has weights/springs in it to mechanically advance timing... it could be that you threw a weight or something
Instead of bashing the equipment that KBunny and many other people on this board (including myself) have
and for what its worth there HAS to be a reason holleys are the carbs used in virtually all vehicles in top notch applications such as..
yes, im a smart *** [8D]
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 551
RE: Carb tuning...
ORIGINAL: KBunny
Lets completely rule out Ignition since the Plugs, Wires, Coil, and Distributor (Mallory Unilight Electronic Distributor) are all brand new and I am not the average teenager who is an idiot when it comes to setting the timing and getting the right vacuum port (and factory spec is 6BTDC without vacuum advance hooked up which should be adequate since my engine is stock as far as I know).... now I am not sure weather or not the distributor has a mechanical advance since I didn't check, didn't see one, but the site I ordered it from said it did... I will try a couple different timing settings but I know that its not going to change anything...
What Thumpin said about oil burning could be a possibility since I do burn oil, weather its rings or valve guide seals I don't know.
Lets completely rule out Ignition since the Plugs, Wires, Coil, and Distributor (Mallory Unilight Electronic Distributor) are all brand new and I am not the average teenager who is an idiot when it comes to setting the timing and getting the right vacuum port (and factory spec is 6BTDC without vacuum advance hooked up which should be adequate since my engine is stock as far as I know).... now I am not sure weather or not the distributor has a mechanical advance since I didn't check, didn't see one, but the site I ordered it from said it did... I will try a couple different timing settings but I know that its not going to change anything...
What Thumpin said about oil burning could be a possibility since I do burn oil, weather its rings or valve guide seals I don't know.