This just started happening for no reason, I have not done anything electrial or mechanical to the work. One day my battery just die, it was around 1.5 old so I just figured it probably needed to be replaced, and
After only two days with my newbattery, it died again, andcontinues to die, I replaced the alternator wiring, replaced the solenoid, replaced the voltage regulator, new battery cables (positive and neg)can anybody give me any suggestions on what else could be killing my battery, I have Autozone test the recharging system and it seems to working properly. The alternator was tested, and it was ok. Some Neg ground is what I'm being told is killing my at autozone, I have not put a meter tester to anything yet.
Thanks for any help.
Kenny

 

have you made sure that there isn't a short or a lite staying on

 

I not reviewed shorts ( were? to begin), and no I have no lights on. But what type of short would kill a battery in two days.

 

Does your battery have side posts as well as top posts? If so, look between the battery and the radiator support and you may find that your positive post on the side is grounding out on the metal there.

 

My battery has top post only, and all cable are clear of touching anything.

 

Sounds like a short.

 

maybe check the radio wiring that goes through the firewall for a split in insulation, or just get a multimeter and with the battery connected check your fuse box for voltage that shouldnt be there when the key is off. Do you have an amp or aftermarket stereo in your car?

 

I will start looking into shorts, and get a mulitmeter for testing. Thanks for all the support.

 

id put a voitage tester on your - lead and start pulling fuse tell it reads 0 after you find out which fuse see whats all hooked to that one then the fun starts of tracking down wires and testing them

 

Hi !

did the battery die while driving or wouldn't the car just not start in the morning.

If it's the latter: you have 2 options
a) your engine doesn't charge the battery or the battery isn't accepting the charge, or
b) the battery is discharging when the car is not running (or maybe even while the car is running).

For a quicktest with a multimeter.
- battery hooked up normally. engine off.
- measure voltage of the battery. should be 12V (just around there)
- disconnect multimeter, start engine, measure again
- voltage now should be higher (13V-14V) not much more.
this is a hint that it's charging (no proof, but most certain)

now if that's ok
- switch the engine off. Pull the key from ignition
- remove the cable connected to battery- (minus)
- hook your multimeter between cable and battery- (make sure to plug the leads in multimeter for amp and change to amp. otherwise you'll shoot the fuse in ampmeter)
so it should look like that:

battery- to multimeter COM port
cable that was on battery- to multimeter AMP port

what value do you read ?
ignore if it's negative or positive. that's just the way you plugged the multimeter.

0 would be perfect (or just means you didn't connect properly).
If you have a clock running in the car or a radio at standby there should be current flowing.
- Clock is usually 15mA
- radio a bit more

if this value gets up to 100mA or more than you have a silent currentpuller... which means you might have:
- the heating spiral in back screen constant running
- a lamp always lit in glovebox or trunk (where you can't see it)

you then have to try and isolate what is actually pulling the power.

hope it helps

Kalli