I tried the brake booster test with them disc, the RPM were fine.

 

I played with the fuel mixture screws and got my best reading of 14 inches (or whatever a vacuum reading is called) with them about three full turns out at 850 RPMS.

 

With that low of a reading, there still must be a vacuum leak somewhere, if not in any of the lines, possibly a leaking carburetor or manifold gasket. When you disconnect and plug the brake vacuum line, are you disconnecting it at the manifold or at the brake booster? If you are disconnecting it at the brake booster, try disconnecting it at the manifold and plugging the port. Maybe your leak is in the line or check valve instead of the booster itself.

 

I plugged it at the manifold. I will check for leaks tomorrow. Thanks.

 

Maybe I'll just replace the intake manifold gasket and paint the intake while I'm at it. How hard is it to take it down and put back together? I have to find that leak some how.

 

Before you tear everything apart,you might try this:
With the engine at idle in park with all vaccum lines properly connected squirta small amountofstarting fluid around the intake gaskets and carb base.
If you have a vaccum leak the idle speed will increaseand you will have found your leak.

 

To be honest with you 69. I tried that a couple times and with the stupid flex fan going 1000 mph it's hard for me to tell. I don't know where else the vacuum leak would be coming from if all hoses are new, I can only think it's from the gaskets. Is it a pain to change those gaskets? I'll double check all hoses and make sure the bolts are snug on the intake and carb first.

 

Changing out the manifold gasket is a 30 minute job. You may as well change the carb gasket while you have it out.