Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

So I have been told that I should just go ahead and spend the extra money to get a hydraulic setup. I have heard they are MUCH easier to engage. Are cable set ups that big of a hassle? I know there are some people on here with T-5 setups so input would be great.

RE: Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

yeah ive driven a few classic stangs with cable clutches, its a pain in the ass for daily driving, and when you let it out just driving regularly it can chirp when ur not trying[&:] stiff as ... well use ur imagination. go with the hydraulic.

RE: Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

+1

RE: Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

I forked out the extra few hundred bucks for a hydraulic clutch and I love it. Definitely worth the money.

RE: Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

The only person I know on this board who has used both with the same vehicle is JamesW. You may want to PM him and see what he thinks.

I have the Mustang Steve cable setup on my '65 (don't know if that is available for your '69) and I can tell you that it is MUCH easier to depress the clutch pedal with the diaphragm pressure plate than it was with the factory linkage and long style pressure plate. Engagement is smooth and linear and really works well. His kit is great because it mimics the proven geometry of the Fox body and uses an off the shelf Fox body aftermarket ADJUSTABLE cable. Also nice is the clutch can be adjusted at the firewall without getting under the vehicle.

Ooops, I just looked at his site and it won't work with the '69 due to cowl differences.

Good luck!

RE: Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

Right..I've had actually all 3 variations in mine over the last 7 years. Mine was one of the prototype (re: lab rats) for Steve's cable clutch. We fabbed my clutch pedal bracket and cable attachment in his garage one Saturday. I was quite happy with the performance of the cable clutch, except that in my case, I couldn't get it far enough away from my long tube Heddman headers. It would heat up and melt the cable housing. That's why I came up with the home made hydraulic system.

The cable system is simpler, and will clear power brakes.
The hydraulic is better for hard to fit applications but will not work with power brakes. Reliability has not been an issue.
The pedal feel to me was just about identical. (I also recommend you use a king cobra clutch)

http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm

RE: Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

I had asked the question about fluid clutches and power brakes and if what you say is true they are incompatible. When I was at Auto-Fair in Charlotte late weekend I saw a 56 Bird with remote power brakes. Very cool set-up. I want power brakes on the car and fluid clutch so from what you say I'll need to do something like the 56 Bird.

But allow me to ask why could you have power brakes with a 4-speed transmission in a 65 but the fluid system won't work? My 95 Z/28 has both with no problem. Could you post a picture of your fluid clutch? I need to see where the master cylinder is.

RE: Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

Installation of the M/C will not clear the power booster housing.

http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HC...HClutch001.jpg

RE: Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

I prefer a nice mechanical connection. Modern Stangs (up to '04 anyway) use cable clutches, and there aren't any engagement issues.[&:]

RE: Hydraulic clutch VS Cable clutch
 

i've heard about the cable clearancew/ headers issue from a few mustang guys

too bad to hear that the hydraulic clutch wont' work w/ power brakes - I know I had to make a custom upper rod to connect to the Zbar and put a bend in it to get around the brake booster when i put the pwr/disc brakes in. Was planning on eventually going w/ the hydraulic clutch.

to the custom fab guys - would there be a way to put the master cylinder in the car , perhaps mounted backwards on the firewall where the rod would go through, and have the rod connect to the pedal w/ a " U " shaped rod - going forward toward the driver and then connect to the driver's side of the pedal (just reverse everything and put the working parts inside, w/ the master cylinder next to the clutch pedal). I have no idea if the space would even be there to try it... was just thinking about ways around this.

mikethebike - is the 56 setup your talking about the pwr brake system that works off the power steering pump (fluid based power-assist instead of vacuum pressure assist) ?