I am trying to decode the engine. I have the door tag and the inner fender vin but I am trying to find the engine vin.
Here is a dumb question: I know the engine code is under the starter, but where is the starter? Pics if possible, and how to take it off.

I found an aluminum tag on my intake manifold, but I have no idea what the hell those numbers mean. On the top left of this tag it reads "289-65", and on the bottom right it has "550-C". Somewhere in the middle was a 1. Can someone tell me what this means and help me out with the engine code?

The car is a 64 1/2 stang.

 

The starter is on the passenger side of the engine way down low where the bell housing hooks up to the engine. Take the positive cable off at the battery, then crawl under there with a 1/2' socket and take the two bolts and cable off. You will see the casting number for the block there behind the starter. Now, use this guide to decode it. If you have a true 64 1/2 built before August then you most likely have a D code 289 V8. The C and A code 289's were not put in until after August. I doubt seriously you will have a K code that came out in July of 64. But hey, you never know what a PO may have put in there.
http://www.classicmustang.com/decoding_part_numbers.htm

 

thanks man.

any idea of what that intake manifold tag is telling me?

 

For thealuminum tag question, the 550-C is not listed in Ford documentation. That's not unusual. However, there is a 550-B for a 64 289 4V ('D' code) and a 550-J for a 65 289 2V ('C' code) listed. Those codes are the actual engine assembly line instructions for transmission type, flexplate or flywheel,and certain accessories, A/C, P/S. I believe that the 550-B is for a manual transmission, the 550-C may be for an automatic.
Anduse a 1/2 box wrench instead of a socket. A socket has a tendancy to round off the head of the bolt in that tight space.
Jim

 

He's going to be under there all night getting that top bolt out with a box end. Use a worm with a long extension and it will be out in seconds.

 

I'm still old fashioned, brused knuckles and all, but the starter housing size forcesa socket and extension, evena flex extension, to be off centered and will cause - brused knuckles (and foul words). A 1/2box wrench is the Ford 'weapon' of choice because it is a pain to get to. I like to use a 12 pointin that tight space. Hey, it works for me.
Jim

 

I find it to be right the opposite. If I have enough extension on the 1/2 inch socket ratchet, and using the flex (as you call it) knuckle I can go straight on the bolt and not bugger the nut of the bolt at all.
I have had my starter out several times for various reasons, and the bolt heads are still factory original looking. I don't round off heads of bolts by coming at them sideways. Laying on your back and looking up with dirt dropping into your eyes is pain enough, much less the act of using a hand tool to take out a bolt when a ratchet with the proper attachments works much better.

 

At 4:02 PDT, I walked out to my garage. It was 4:09 PDT when I started this post. The starter on my 65 GT Fastback is out and on the ground. The car was in the air for an oil change tomorrow so I did cheat a little. The wrench I used was a Craftsman 12 point 1/2 box but it doesn't have a Sears stock number on it, it was my father's and I guess at least 45 years old. On the positive side, no brused knuckles. I'm getting better in my old age.
Jim

 

OK Jim. No argument from me. We all have our ways of wrenching. Hell, I've been doing this chit for over 50 years now. If your box wrench works for you, then great.

 

Haha I'm sorry but I find it pretty funny that you guys are talking about which wrench or socket works best to take out the starter. You guys take the starter out in a matter of minutes, and I don't even know where the damn thing is or looks like. Haha