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electrical re-wire question

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Old May 7, 2007 | 02:44 AM
  #1  
bradleyb's Avatar
bradleyb
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Default electrical re-wire question

We just finished buffing the car today and I am getting ready to wire and plumb the shell. I purchased the Ron Francis wiring kit and it looks pretty straightforward (or as straightforward as re-doing your electrical system gets ). My question is this - the wiring comes as, well, wiring - it doesn't come with any sleeves or insulation. What is everyone doing in this regard - should I go for the black plastic that is cut down the side and use decent connectors or go with the color sleeves that heat shrink?

I saw the neon blue and red color sleeves at Autozone and they looked very cool. My 66 is a grantite gray metallic restomod with black por-15 engine compartment.I am painting the engine black with the chrome goodies (Edelbrock endurashine intake, BG carb, KN air, chrome valve covers, red Mallory HEI, red MSD wires with the chrome mustang holders) - red seems a bit much especially when I am going with essentially a black and chrome motif. The blackplastic tubing is pretty cheap and Ithink it may blend in more with the engine compartment.

What does everyone think?
Old May 7, 2007 | 07:50 AM
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Default RE: electrical re-wire question

mine i used the same wiring sleeves but black does the kit come with the conectors or do you have to do that if you get alot of heat shrink it works great. another little trip they sell a stick on zip tie anchor those work good to keep the wiring where you want it
Old May 7, 2007 | 09:16 AM
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Default RE: electrical re-wire question

Stick with the black sheathing...the colored will look too outlandish very quickly. At every wire connection...crimp and solder....then use the black heat shrink over the connection. Anything less and you'll be chasing electrical grimlins forever.
Old May 7, 2007 | 03:37 PM
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bradleyb
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Default RE: electrical re-wire question

Thanks guys, I think I sticking with the black poly (I saw some that come with chrome connectors that looked very cool but I would rather it just fade into the background - rather be looking at the engine ). If I had a different setup, I might go with something wild on the color side but we are trying for a more old school look. I will have to check into the anchor zip ties and the connectors - wiringproducts.com had some chrome connecters that were pretty cool.

JamesW, I didn't understand what you meant by crimp and solder - how do you get the solder gun inside the plastic piece to solder (or are you referring to the other end of the wire and not the end you did the crimping on?)? I was thinking to use the black heat shrink over the connection that I used the crimper on - i.e. insert the wire and crimp, then shrink wrap the air gap space between the wire and the connector - is this what you mean?

My biggest goal with restoring cars is that I like to drive them - take the extra time to do it right, I want to be able to hop in the car anytime and go without having to tinker with this or that.

Thanks
Old May 7, 2007 | 11:17 PM
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Default RE: electrical re-wire question

This may be a bit ****...but when ever I use the crimp style lugs, I pull the plastic off, crimp, solder the crimped end, then resleeve with heat shrink. For example.... spade lugs going to this fuse panel.



Wires that are crimped will 1) corrode and 2) work themselves loose.
Old May 8, 2007 | 02:41 PM
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Nice, thanks JamesW! Never too **** in the electrical space I reckon - always comes back to haunt later
Old May 8, 2007 | 05:29 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: electrical re-wire question

Wires that are crimped with vice grips will come loose. If you get a decent pair of crimpers, not the type that are 1/8 inch thick sheet metal and include screw cutters, crimps will stay. Your right, corrosion is the big problem and shrink tubing is a good way to protect the connection. However, I prefer to use a ring lug type vs a push on spade lug.
Jim
Old May 8, 2007 | 05:30 PM
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Default RE: electrical re-wire question


ORIGINAL: JamesW

This may be a bit ****...but when ever I use the crimp style lugs, I pull the plastic off, crimp, solder the crimped end, then resleeve with heat shrink. For example.... spade lugs going to this fuse panel.



Wires that are crimped will 1) corrode and 2) work themselves loose.
i do the same thing then i either cold shrink or heat shrink the entire wire strand the comes and goes it makes it clean
Old May 8, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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Default RE: electrical re-wire question

How is the installation of the Ron Francis wire kit? I am considering getting one for my 67....need to get that old fuse box out before a fire starts. Will the kit do the whole car (guages, headlights, fog lights, convertible roof, tail lights, etc)?
Old May 8, 2007 | 06:55 PM
  #10  
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Default RE: electrical re-wire question

I am going to start the Ron Francis installation this weekend - I just finished paint and didn't want to do anything until after I finished wet sanding/buffing. The instructions say to find a spot for the box and then start with the lowest numbered circuit and do each circuit completely before starting the next - each bag has it's own instructions.

Yes, the kit includes everything for the stock wiring lights, gauges, etc. Also, the fuse box must have an add'l 10-15 items that can be added - everything from power windows to electric fuel pump, etc.

I can't wait
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