Fuel gage on empty
First post (other than my post in the 'welcome' area). I have lots of questions but I don't want to flood.
First thing I noticed is that my fuel gage is always on empty. I know the thing sucks gas but even after I put some in it reports empty.
Is that a sign of something in particular? Is the fix something a new guy with a book can do or should I take it in (I also was told by the guy that sold it to me the carb should be adjusted/replaced so it might have to go to the shop anyway...)
If it matters, it's a 1968 289, I bought it today
Cody
[IMG]local://upfiles/69282/585FFDDCAA0F4660AD907A13FCDDE35D.jpg[/IMG]
First thing I noticed is that my fuel gage is always on empty. I know the thing sucks gas but even after I put some in it reports empty.
Is that a sign of something in particular? Is the fix something a new guy with a book can do or should I take it in (I also was told by the guy that sold it to me the carb should be adjusted/replaced so it might have to go to the shop anyway...)
If it matters, it's a 1968 289, I bought it today
Cody
[IMG]local://upfiles/69282/585FFDDCAA0F4660AD907A13FCDDE35D.jpg[/IMG]
It's likely that the float in your tank is broken. It was broken on mine when I got it. I replaced it, but the new one went out after a few months, so I gave up. So I've been on "E" for the last 10+ years.
I've recently learned that getting the cheap repo floats is a bad idea, and that may be why mine only lasted a few months.
I've recently learned that getting the cheap repo floats is a bad idea, and that may be why mine only lasted a few months.
Thanks. I'll look into the float. Is that something I can check on my own to see if it's bad?
(I called the guy I bought it from and he said it has been sitting for a bit so needs to be driven around before it 'bounces' back into place. I think that might be BS. I drove it about 60 miles home today and on a few short trips)
Cody
(I called the guy I bought it from and he said it has been sitting for a bit so needs to be driven around before it 'bounces' back into place. I think that might be BS. I drove it about 60 miles home today and on a few short trips)
Cody
To check, pull the electrical connection at the gas tank. That means putting the car on jack stands and crawling under to the tank. With the key on, check the gauge. It should read empty. Ground the connector, use a short jumper wire from that wire connection to somewhere on the car under there that is metal. Check the gauge again. It should read full. If so, it's the float. Now the hard part, You got to drain the tank, remove the sending unit, replace it with the new sender and gasketand make sure it don't leak by filling the tank, use about 5 gallons ofgas. To make sure you got the problem solved,with the new sender,connect thefuel level wire (that'stheone you disconnected before) andground it (a jumper wire to a metal part of the car- I use a 2 or 3 foot long wire with alligator clips at each end) and with the key on,watch the gauge as you move the float arm up and down.
Option two is the gauge, 5V regulator or some wiring malfunction.
Jim
Option two is the gauge, 5V regulator or some wiring malfunction.
Jim
ORIGINAL: CodyRide
he said it has been sitting for a bit so needs to be driven around before it 'bounces' back into place.
he said it has been sitting for a bit so needs to be driven around before it 'bounces' back into place.
One very important tip for removing the sending unit. Either use a brass or wood punch to turn the unit. If you use anything else, well I don't think you wanna blow yourself up. That would be a BIG mistake.
All taken into consideration, I would pull the 'empty' tank to get better access to the retaining ring for the sending unit. And your are 100 pct correct, I use a brass mallet. It's a good exercise in what it takes to do thing on your car.
Jim
Jim


