hey, i was wondering what it means when a block is designed for non-roller cams. what is different about that block? or is it a case where u just need to change a bearings ??? thanks

 

non-roller block


roller block


the 2nd pic is of a chevy but its the same idea. notice the machined flat circles in the center where the roller lifter hold down thingy mounts to, and the lifter bores are cast a little taller into the block.

 

so if a block is designed for non-roller cams there isnt much you can do to make a roller cam fit since its in the machine work??? or is there?? or are you just better off going with a new block that is designed for a roller cam?

 

The nice thing about going for the roller block instead of retrofitting a roller cam in an early block is you get the one-piece rear main seal on the roller blocks.

FWIW, I had a roller cam in a '69 351W block. Instead of the lifters being retained with a bolt-on retainer and guides, the lifters were connected in pairs with a bracket which kept them aligned.

[edit] The lifters look like these.

 

how did u like the roller cam in that block and did the brackets ever become a problem or break?

if given the choice would u go new block manufactured for roller cam or just use that kinda set up??

 

Like gothand, I've also run a retrofit roller cam & kit. In my case, it was (is, actually)a SBC and a short hydraulic roller grind. I have never had any problems with it, and it's not because I baby itafter it's warmed up.I don't think I'll ever go back to running a flat tappet cam in anything I build.

Norm

 

I liked the retrofit rollers and never had a single problem. The cam was a custom grind Crower with about .546" of lift I believe. Ithad solid lifters which required a little more maintenance, but was fine.

 

Rollers are absolutely hands down better than flat tappets. The cost and extra weight of a roller valve train is more than offset by the efficiency, and ability to make more power at lower rpms, and have no friction and not have to worry about lifter/cam wear. Retro fits work just as well as going to a factory style roller block, but like was said, a factory later style roller block has a 1 piece rear seal(which don't leak like the 2 pieces tend to do). As far as roller lifter/link reliability....I just recently put a new 302 in my 'stang cuz the previous builder used too light a valve spring and my valves floated. This eventually cuased the needle bearings in the roller lifter on #1 exhuast to fail and disintegrate. With the roller just flopping around on the lifter and the massive clearance in the vlave train that it generated, it still drove home and held together, and the link bars hold the lifters in alignment were fine. All that was damaged was the lifter and the cam, but I rebuilt thewhole engine anyway, due to other problems(needless to say I built this one myself). By the late 1980's all the manufacturers that were making pushrod engines, had pretty much switched to roller cams due to the major benefits they provide.

 

^ well put, but still keep in mind the 1 piece rear main seal blocks are a big plus not to mention the lifter bores are taller which gives better support.

 

So what is the actual difference between the roller cams and solid ones and how do they work? I know little about cams and any knowledge is appreciated.