Well here is what's happening.
MY holley 4150 600 cfm is giving me a wierd problem. It idles fine when in park/neut. (purrs like a kitten at around 800 rpm on my engine diag tool). When it's under load (R,D,1,or 2) it bogs down to just under 500-600 rpm. I've checked timing (it's good) and just about everything else I could think of. My float level is good, my mixture is good (i think anyway, no smoke of any color out the back). When it gets above about 1200 rpm it runs better than ever.
The only other issue I have not fixed yet it the fuel boiling problem. I have ordered a phelonic spacer but I don't think that is the problem because I had the current spacer on there before I rebuilt the carb.
Any ideas you could give me would be great! Thanks in advance.



-edit-
just thought of another weird thing with the carb. On the drivers side idle mixture screw i can kill the engine. But on the passengers side I can set it all the way in and the engine will keep running.

 

oops didn't read the updated rules.
Glen don't ban me!

 

That's what automatic trannies do. When you put it in gear the resistance of the drivetrain loads the engine through the torque converter and pulls the engine down. That's why there's usually a neutral and in gear rpm setting for automatics. As far as the idle mixture screw, sounds like something in the carb is messed up maybe?

 

well how do i set that?

 

What, the idle speed? Set it in neutral, and then put it in park, if it doesn't stall/try to stall you should be ok....but then, I don't have an automatic [8D]. As far as the idle mixture, it sounds like the carb might need a rebuild, perhaps something in the idle circuit is damaged. Could be a bent butterfly too exposing enough of the transfer slot that at idle it still gets enough fuel on that one side? Couldn't tell ya for sure without seeing/hearing/experiencingit

 

The best and most accurate way to set the idle mixture screws is with a vacuum gauge. Turn them both all the way in, then bring them both out 1 1/2 turns. Start the engine and set your idle speed at about 850 rpm, and with the vacuum gauge hooked up. Now, turn the right one in 1/4 turn and see if the vacuum went up any. Most likely it will, so then turn the left one in 1/4 turn. Notice the vacuum gauge again to see if the vacuum went up any. If it did, repeat what you just did. At any time the vacuum goes down, stop and go back out to where the vacuum was the greatest. It is also important that both screws are screwed out the exact same amount.

 

yeah but to get it to idle at 850 under load i have to have it to darn near 2000 rpm in park.

I can even screw in the idle mixture on the drivers side and kill the engine when idle in park is at 800-850 rpm, and get the mixture correct, however on the other side (passenger side) i can screw it all the way in and nothing will change. Also no matter what i do with the timing, nothing really changes the carb settings, just a little knock, so I set the timing back to stock, or as close as possible while keeping the engine going.

When actually on a test drive, the car goes hard as soon as you tap the gas, then it kind of goes, hesitates, goes hesitates, and of course if I stomp on the gas it wants to die.

Like I said there is fuel boil, but i've got a plastic spacer on the way. also my current spacer has a hose that connects it to the passenger side valve cover. anybody know what that does?
just go here and you can see it.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...spacerhose.jpg

 

You don't set the idle under load in order to adjust the idle mixture screws. Put the car in park when you adjust the idle mixture screws.

 

I think you're referring to the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilator). You should have the PCV valve in line with that hose (if I'm following you).

 

so what RPM should I be at in park? is 800 too low or should it be about twice that like say 1600-1700?, and what RPM should I be running when i get it under load?

But why does the hose goe into my carb spacer? and what does it do?