Well this isnt a mustang fender its a toyota pickup fender i was painting with my friend but for future info we sandlbasted it then primed with a selfetch and blocked with 600 and painted with a single stage paint. It was going all smooth until i pointed out a few little spots that looked like the size of a grain of sand with a hair waving in the paint their were several of them they should have been wetsanded out but instead my friend tried to spray them and the result is sags and now i will be sanding the whole fender down and starting over again. Can anyone tell me why you get those little black hairs?

[IMG]local://upfiles/43944/B1759FB2E0554FE09133982D0EC58F5A.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/43944/1BDDF2B7724B43C9B7F53A6B73BAEEEB.jpg[/IMG]

 

off your head, beard, goatee, mustache, arms or body part... most of the time them come straight off of you so wear a hat backwards and long sleeves when you paint and comb your beard out before you spray so you dont have them end up in the paint

 

But they werent real hairs dude they were like black runs in the paint kinde look like this *--

 

hard tellin what did kind of paint did you use? maybe you didnt allow the coats to flash off long enough, or you put too much material on there and it cracked out.

 

no it didnt crack it just looked like fish eyes with a tale thats all they were black

 

fish eye is from oil off your body on the part go to the place you got the paint and get fish eye remover put that in the paint before painting.

 

Without a closeup of the problem, it is hard to tell, but the description is that of some kind of contamination in the paint.or a possible incompatibility with between paints or contamination. I have battled contamination for years and have found many areas that can cause problems, which I will detail below.

My suggestions will seem like a lot of work and will cost a little to implement, but compared to having to go back to bare metal and repaint, you will be time and money ahead. Once you get in the habit of working this way, you will find that it doesn't take much more time to do it clean and that just the time not spent sanding dust out of your spray jobs will more than make up for the time spent.

Troubleshooting paint problems also becomes much easier when you get your work and spray area clean and under your control.

1. Always use wax/grease remover from your paint shop before every step of paint removal, sanding, spraying.Use a virgin cotton cloth to apply and remove it. Refinisher's cheese cloth works well and is cheap. Silicones and waxes are nearly impossible to get off--sanding only drives them deeper into the surface. Washing can leave contaminants in rags and many new fabrics have special treatments on them.

2. Use virgin sandpaper to make sure it has not been contaminated. Never put your sander down on any surface with the sandpaper touching the surface.

3. Banish silicone from your shop. No Armor-all, most waxes, tire dressings. If a product does not say "Paint Shop Safe" why risk it? Your paint shop can supply you with paint shop safe products. The Meguiar's' numbered polishing compounds and their yellow wax are supposed to be safe. The 3M line of compounds is safe.

4. Put a water/oil filter on your spray gun. All compressors put out oil and oily contaminants. Hoses and fittings flake off contaminants. Condensation is unavoidable. If the gun has been used without a filter, it is not a bad idea to flush the air passages to remove any residual gunk.

5:Banish Dust and flying contamination.
:
5A.Human Contamination: Put on your clean overalls, spray sock, respirator, gloves to protect your and your project from each other.As mentioned, humans give off all kinds of contamination, plus you likely have blasting/grinding/sanding /spraying dust on you and your clothes


5B:Shop Dust: A Spray booth is the ideal environment, but if you don't have access, do everything you can to cut down dust in your spray area. Try to separate your sanding/grinding/welding area from where you spray to minimize dust. Sweep and vacuum the whole area Try to have ventilation that will keep disturbed dust from resettling in the area. Some, myself included blow out the area with compressed air especially near the spraying area to keep dust from being stirred up air movements.

5C: Hose down the floor and as much of the space as possible prior to painting to keep the dust under control.

6: Make sure your ventilation air is clean. Draw from a clean environment or put in filters. Don't let that miller moth dive-bomb your paint job as once happened to me.[sm=headbang.gif]

I hope you find this useful. I will be glad to continue to help trouble-shoot.

Brian

 

how well did you prep befor you sprayed? next time try wiping it down with dx3812 let it sit for 4 mins tac rag it wash your hands then spray. just make sure everythings clean. OH and if your spraying in a garage which your washer/dryer hose thing runs into make sure your not drying anything (learned the hard way. threw dust all over my freshly painted 86 silverado)

 

This sounds like good stuff for the FAQ section. Glen...what do you think?

 

I used simple green with a scotch brite and scrubed it before the primer then i used simple green and watsanded the primer with it then rinsed and repeated until the body was straight then washed with simple green then layed down the paint