valve adjustment question
can someone please tell me why, after i adjust my valves, and it does not matter if i use the opposite cylinder method or doing one cylinder at a time, i can always go back and spin the push rods on some of the cylinders when i have finished. it seems to me that if i adjust the valve when the lifter is at base circle of the cam, (tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the push rods stops spinning), the push rod would not spin on any cylinder after i finish the procedure.
this is what do - turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up (opening the valve)- then i adjust the valve on the intake on the same cylinder tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the pushrod stops twirling. i turn the engine until the intake pushrodgoes full open, and just before it is all the way down (valve closed) i adjust the exhaust valve. after i do this on all the cylinders,i can go back and spin pushrods onsome of the cylinders. that shouldn't happen should it?
this is what do - turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up (opening the valve)- then i adjust the valve on the intake on the same cylinder tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the pushrod stops twirling. i turn the engine until the intake pushrodgoes full open, and just before it is all the way down (valve closed) i adjust the exhaust valve. after i do this on all the cylinders,i can go back and spin pushrods onsome of the cylinders. that shouldn't happen should it?
Check this to see if you are doing everything right. You may not be letting the plunger relax before proceeding.
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html
that's the page i'm using and i have studied it repeatedly. i promise i am doing exactly what it says - only not going 3/4 of a turn, only 1/2. the car runs fine after i asjust. i just don't understand why the rods will twirl after they have been adjusted.
ORIGINAL: jroseman
can someone please tell me why, after i adjust my valves, and it does not matter if i use the opposite cylinder method or doing one cylinder at a time, i can always go back and spin the push rods on some of the cylinders when i have finished. it seems to me that if i adjust the valve when the lifter is at base circle of the cam, (tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the push rods stops spinning), the push rod would not spin on any cylinder after i finish the procedure.
this is what do - turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up (opening the valve)- then i adjust the valve on the intake on the same cylinder tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the pushrod stops twirling. i turn the engine until the intake pushrodgoes full open, and just before it is all the way down (valve closed) i adjust the exhaust valve. after i do this on all the cylinders,i can go back and spin pushrods onsome of the cylinders. that shouldn't happen should it?
can someone please tell me why, after i adjust my valves, and it does not matter if i use the opposite cylinder method or doing one cylinder at a time, i can always go back and spin the push rods on some of the cylinders when i have finished. it seems to me that if i adjust the valve when the lifter is at base circle of the cam, (tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the push rods stops spinning), the push rod would not spin on any cylinder after i finish the procedure.
this is what do - turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up (opening the valve)- then i adjust the valve on the intake on the same cylinder tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the pushrod stops twirling. i turn the engine until the intake pushrodgoes full open, and just before it is all the way down (valve closed) i adjust the exhaust valve. after i do this on all the cylinders,i can go back and spin pushrods onsome of the cylinders. that shouldn't happen should it?
You should be able to spin the pushrods on a properly adjusted hydraulic valvetrain, the ones that will not spin are probably in some stage of "open".
The engine oil pressure is used to "take up the slack". On a properly adjusted hydraulic lifter, the plunger in the lifter is supposed to be centered in the lifter body. An internal spring lifts the plunger with about 5 to 10 pounds of force, with the balance of the resistance you feel being the oil already in the lifter. Once the lifters bleed, even a little, it will be easy to turn the pushrods.
When adjusting hydraulic lifters, the objective is to center the plunger in the lifter bore while the cam lobe is in the "full open position".
i will accept you answer. but if i have waited for the spring to relax before i adjust the valve, give it 1/2 turn after it stops "twirling" - and then lock it down - the pushrodshould not twirl spin on the next engine rotation when the rod is in the same position as it was when adjusted.
It usually takes some time and pressure on the plunger for lifters to bleed off, some will bleed faster than others, and of course, they will not pump up again until the engine is started.
I really dislike setting valves using the static method once there is oil in the lifters, it is hard to get a read on whether the lifter is bottomed out, or if I am pushing against the oil...
I always set the valves with the engine running once the lifters are full of oil...
I really dislike setting valves using the static method once there is oil in the lifters, it is hard to get a read on whether the lifter is bottomed out, or if I am pushing against the oil...
I always set the valves with the engine running once the lifters are full of oil...
ORIGINAL: jroseman
never done that because of the mess. do you just take them down to where they stop the clatter?
never done that because of the mess. do you just take them down to where they stop the clatter?
Just be sure your socket is not in contact with the rocker arm, or it may mask the ticking.
If you have an extra set of stock (or cheap) valve covers you can cut the top out of them and use them to contain most of the oil while you work,,,


