Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

valve adjustment question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 23, 2007 | 12:29 PM
  #1  
jroseman's Avatar
jroseman
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 187
Default valve adjustment question

can someone please tell me why, after i adjust my valves, and it does not matter if i use the opposite cylinder method or doing one cylinder at a time, i can always go back and spin the push rods on some of the cylinders when i have finished. it seems to me that if i adjust the valve when the lifter is at base circle of the cam, (tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the push rods stops spinning), the push rod would not spin on any cylinder after i finish the procedure.

this is what do - turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up (opening the valve)- then i adjust the valve on the intake on the same cylinder tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the pushrod stops twirling. i turn the engine until the intake pushrodgoes full open, and just before it is all the way down (valve closed) i adjust the exhaust valve. after i do this on all the cylinders,i can go back and spin pushrods onsome of the cylinders. that shouldn't happen should it?
Old Jun 23, 2007 | 12:39 PM
  #2  
Soaring's Avatar
Soaring
I ♥ Acer
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
Default RE: valve adjustment question

Check this to see if you are doing everything right. You may not be letting the plunger relax before proceeding.
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html
Old Jun 23, 2007 | 12:47 PM
  #3  
jroseman's Avatar
jroseman
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 187
Default RE: valve adjustment question

that's the page i'm using and i have studied it repeatedly. i promise i am doing exactly what it says - only not going 3/4 of a turn, only 1/2. the car runs fine after i asjust. i just don't understand why the rods will twirl after they have been adjusted.
Old Jun 23, 2007 | 12:52 PM
  #4  
JMD's Avatar
JMD
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,469
From: AR
Default RE: valve adjustment question

ORIGINAL: jroseman

can someone please tell me why, after i adjust my valves, and it does not matter if i use the opposite cylinder method or doing one cylinder at a time, i can always go back and spin the push rods on some of the cylinders when i have finished. it seems to me that if i adjust the valve when the lifter is at base circle of the cam, (tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the push rods stops spinning), the push rod would not spin on any cylinder after i finish the procedure.

this is what do - turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up (opening the valve)- then i adjust the valve on the intake on the same cylinder tightening the lock nut 1/2 turn after the pushrod stops twirling. i turn the engine until the intake pushrodgoes full open, and just before it is all the way down (valve closed) i adjust the exhaust valve. after i do this on all the cylinders,i can go back and spin pushrods onsome of the cylinders. that shouldn't happen should it?

You should be able to spin the pushrods on a properly adjusted hydraulic valvetrain, the ones that will not spin are probably in some stage of "open".

The engine oil pressure is used to "take up the slack". On a properly adjusted hydraulic lifter, the plunger in the lifter is supposed to be centered in the lifter body. An internal spring lifts the plunger with about 5 to 10 pounds of force, with the balance of the resistance you feel being the oil already in the lifter. Once the lifters bleed, even a little, it will be easy to turn the pushrods.

When adjusting hydraulic lifters, the objective is to center the plunger in the lifter bore while the cam lobe is in the "full open position".

Old Jun 23, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #5  
jroseman's Avatar
jroseman
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 187
Default RE: valve adjustment question

i will accept you answer. but if i have waited for the spring to relax before i adjust the valve, give it 1/2 turn after it stops "twirling" - and then lock it down - the pushrodshould not twirl spin on the next engine rotation when the rod is in the same position as it was when adjusted.
Old Jun 23, 2007 | 01:09 PM
  #6  
JMD's Avatar
JMD
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,469
From: AR
Default RE: valve adjustment question

Are you dealing with new unprimed lifters, or"old" lifters
Old Jun 23, 2007 | 02:28 PM
  #7  
jroseman's Avatar
jroseman
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 187
Default RE: valve adjustment question

the lifters are "old" lifters.
Old Jun 23, 2007 | 02:43 PM
  #8  
JMD's Avatar
JMD
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,469
From: AR
Default RE: valve adjustment question

It usually takes some time and pressure on the plunger for lifters to bleed off, some will bleed faster than others, and of course, they will not pump up again until the engine is started.

I really dislike setting valves using the static method once there is oil in the lifters, it is hard to get a read on whether the lifter is bottomed out, or if I am pushing against the oil...

I always set the valves with the engine running once the lifters are full of oil...
Old Jun 23, 2007 | 03:12 PM
  #9  
jroseman's Avatar
jroseman
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 187
Default RE: valve adjustment question

never done that because of the mess. do you just take them down to where they stop the clatter?
Old Jun 23, 2007 | 03:19 PM
  #10  
JMD's Avatar
JMD
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,469
From: AR
Default RE: valve adjustment question

ORIGINAL: jroseman

never done that because of the mess. do you just take them down to where they stop the clatter?
Same principal, with the engine at idle, back off the rocker nut until the valve starts ticking, slowly tighten it till quiet, and very slowly take the nut down a half turn in 1/4 turn incriments.

Just be sure your socket is not in contact with the rocker arm, or it may mask the ticking.

If you have an extra set of stock (or cheap) valve covers you can cut the top out of them and use them to contain most of the oil while you work,,,



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:57 AM.