Speedo Cable Too Short?
I melted my speedo cable housing on the headers last month. Last week I finally got around to ordering and installing a new cable. They are such a pain to install![:'(] After a few hours of figuring out how to get to the cluster, I got the new cable on. It was a Drake from NPD. The housing was the same length as the old one, so I knew I ordered the right one. I had to reuse the speedo driven gear because the one did not come with the new cable. Took the car out of a short test drive and all looked good.
I took it the next day on a weekend drive thru the hill country and the dang gauge stopped reading speed. I could not hear any noise, so I tugged on the cable on the cluster side. All was good there. I took the dash back off Monday to check that side. The clamp is a little easy to get off, but it stays on when you tug on it. Took the car out of a test drive and the gauge worked again for a couple miles then quit. I said ok, so I did some more testing. When the car sits for a little while, the gauge will work for a couple of miles then stop almost with exception.
Last night I took the tranny side out and looked at the driven gear. It has a little wear but did not look too bad. I noticed when playing with it that when I pushed the gear toward the cable and spun, I could feel the cable turn. When I pulled it away from the cable and spun, nothing. The clip was one good, so I though damn the cable must be too short or the gear is spun out. The old cable did freeze up when it melted, so it could have spun the gear, but that dang cable looks like it should stick out of the housing another 1/8 to 1/4 in. I tried pulling the cable out of the housing, but it is fully extended. Anyone have problems with getting a cable that is too short for the housing? Keep in mind the housing is the right length. Before I take the whole thing out again and order a custom length cable, I am going to replace the driven gear because that is easy to do.
Sorry for the long story, but everytime I take the dash off, it is a two hour project. I just want some ideas before I have to go thru that again.
Another thought I had was thatthe gauge is bad, but I have never seen one work then not work the work again.
I know Drake is a good company and so is NPD. How far should the tranny end of the cable stick out of the housing?
I took it the next day on a weekend drive thru the hill country and the dang gauge stopped reading speed. I could not hear any noise, so I tugged on the cable on the cluster side. All was good there. I took the dash back off Monday to check that side. The clamp is a little easy to get off, but it stays on when you tug on it. Took the car out of a test drive and the gauge worked again for a couple miles then quit. I said ok, so I did some more testing. When the car sits for a little while, the gauge will work for a couple of miles then stop almost with exception.
Last night I took the tranny side out and looked at the driven gear. It has a little wear but did not look too bad. I noticed when playing with it that when I pushed the gear toward the cable and spun, I could feel the cable turn. When I pulled it away from the cable and spun, nothing. The clip was one good, so I though damn the cable must be too short or the gear is spun out. The old cable did freeze up when it melted, so it could have spun the gear, but that dang cable looks like it should stick out of the housing another 1/8 to 1/4 in. I tried pulling the cable out of the housing, but it is fully extended. Anyone have problems with getting a cable that is too short for the housing? Keep in mind the housing is the right length. Before I take the whole thing out again and order a custom length cable, I am going to replace the driven gear because that is easy to do.
Sorry for the long story, but everytime I take the dash off, it is a two hour project. I just want some ideas before I have to go thru that again.
Another thought I had was thatthe gauge is bad, but I have never seen one work then not work the work again.
I know Drake is a good company and so is NPD. How far should the tranny end of the cable stick out of the housing?
Did the speedo cable you got from NPD include the "foam" seal that goes in the hole in the firewall? I have a new, nondescript cable that does not have this seal and was thinking of buying a new cable.
BTW, I see you have a toploader transmission which uses a longer cable than an auto or T5. Verify your part to ensure it is for your 4-speed.
BTW, I see you have a toploader transmission which uses a longer cable than an auto or T5. Verify your part to ensure it is for your 4-speed.
The old cable seized up when the old housing melted. I cannot turn either end of it and cannot get it out to test the length.That is why I think maybe the gear stripped. If the gear was still turning in the tranny, but the cable welded and did not break, then it would not be able to spin and might have stripped the gear, but it is hard to tell.
The new cable I ordered from NPD did not include the firewall plug. I had to put a ton of silicone in that hole to plug it up.The cable and housingwas manufactured by Drake if that helps, but it did not include a gear of firewall plug. The cable I ordered was for a 4speed MT without the drag pack. The housing is the same length as the old cable and there is no problem getting the housing from the cluster to the tranny. The only problemmight be that the cable inside the housing is about a 1/2" too short???
The new cable I ordered from NPD did not include the firewall plug. I had to put a ton of silicone in that hole to plug it up.The cable and housingwas manufactured by Drake if that helps, but it did not include a gear of firewall plug. The cable I ordered was for a 4speed MT without the drag pack. The housing is the same length as the old cable and there is no problem getting the housing from the cluster to the tranny. The only problemmight be that the cable inside the housing is about a 1/2" too short???
Jim,
What do you know about that rubber seal/grommet/whatchamacallit for the speedo cable at the firewall? Is it available anywhere? I wonder why in the heck it doesn't come with the cable.
What do you know about that rubber seal/grommet/whatchamacallit for the speedo cable at the firewall? Is it available anywhere? I wonder why in the heck it doesn't come with the cable.
Jeff,
To cut costs, the maker - well -cuts costs I cut the old one off, used black weatherstrip adhesive (3M 08008) and put it on my new cable.
That sleeve reminds me of the foam rubber insulation that is used as an thermal insulator on large commercial refrigerator pipes. I've never tried that stuff but it may work.
Jim
To cut costs, the maker - well -cuts costs I cut the old one off, used black weatherstrip adhesive (3M 08008) and put it on my new cable.
That sleeve reminds me of the foam rubber insulation that is used as an thermal insulator on large commercial refrigerator pipes. I've never tried that stuff but it may work.
Jim
I'm going to have to try that stuff or scrounge a used cable somewhere. I believe my stock one melted somehow as there is nothing but goop. [
] It just so happens that my brother-in-law is building an office including a large walk-in freezer. Maybe I can snag a piece.
] It just so happens that my brother-in-law is building an office including a large walk-in freezer. Maybe I can snag a piece.
Jeff,
Let me know if that insulation substitute works.
And a question to you - does the end of your trunk torsion bar have that 'spring nut' that looks like a thin washer on it?
JIm
Let me know if that insulation substitute works.
And a question to you - does the end of your trunk torsion bar have that 'spring nut' that looks like a thin washer on it?
JIm
ORIGINAL: 66GTKFB
Jeff,
Let me know if that insulation substitute works.
And a question to you - does the end of your trunk torsion bar have that 'spring nut' that looks like a thin washer on it?
JIm
Jeff,
Let me know if that insulation substitute works.
And a question to you - does the end of your trunk torsion bar have that 'spring nut' that looks like a thin washer on it?
JIm


