5.0/302 vs 5.8/351w
Hey i was searching on fordperformanceparts.com and they offer a 302 with 345hp for $3700and i know a custom building who can build me a 350hp 351w for about the same price.I want to know which is a better deal. They offer the same hp and relatively the same price. Help is appreciated[
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id go for the biggest displacement engine i can afford but thats just me both are nice. if its going in a 64-66 the 351w and 351c are tight fits 67-73 is a easy bolt in.id go for the 351w you could stroke it to like a 427 later on if you like. limit on a 302 safely is about 347. what rear end and trans are you gonna use make sure they can take the power.
In very general terms, a larger CI motor making the same power as a smaller CI motor, is not as stressed doing so.
Also, have a look at the torque outputs on each; odds are the 351 will be making more, and that also requires consideration.
However, don't just look at outputs. Get a breakdown on the components used for each motor. You can make a cheap motor produce high HP figures, but the longevity will be compromised.
Also, have a look at the torque outputs on each; odds are the 351 will be making more, and that also requires consideration.
However, don't just look at outputs. Get a breakdown on the components used for each motor. You can make a cheap motor produce high HP figures, but the longevity will be compromised.
Thanks, well i thinking off getting some better heads if i get a 351w, probably a better exhaust and when i get some cash, ill probably stroke it a 408. Im thinking maybe a tko600 tranny and a 9 inch rear. What do you guys think.
i'm thinking the exercise will cost a lot more than you think! its not just the engine you need. Car will need better brakes, suspension, cooling as well as the diff and gearbox (good choices by the way, but the tko600 wont just drop in, mods and parts required). Also the 9" - what ratio and what sort of center?
as fast66 said, get a breakdown of whats been used in the engine. If its a good build why would you undo that later for a 408 stroker...why not just buy one straight up. There should not be that much difference in price.
note, from other posts on the forum, the quoted hpfigures for crate engines are often not achieved in real life...different carbs, fuel, exhausts etc. Some will, some wont make the stated performance.
What does your $ include? Do you then need carb, ignition, starter motor etc ( = more $ )
the thing that gives you that "thrown back in the seat" feeling is torque, not hp. A 351 will normally be better in that department than a 302 and at lower revs...meaning you are not having to thrash your engine all the time to get action. That doesnt mean you cant get a 302 to be quicker than a 351, just you gotta build it more and drive it harder. (and you will still lose if the 351 is built to the same sort of level)
good luck on your quest. engine decisions are fun and no 2 opinions will be the same
as fast66 said, get a breakdown of whats been used in the engine. If its a good build why would you undo that later for a 408 stroker...why not just buy one straight up. There should not be that much difference in price.
note, from other posts on the forum, the quoted hpfigures for crate engines are often not achieved in real life...different carbs, fuel, exhausts etc. Some will, some wont make the stated performance.
What does your $ include? Do you then need carb, ignition, starter motor etc ( = more $ )
the thing that gives you that "thrown back in the seat" feeling is torque, not hp. A 351 will normally be better in that department than a 302 and at lower revs...meaning you are not having to thrash your engine all the time to get action. That doesnt mean you cant get a 302 to be quicker than a 351, just you gotta build it more and drive it harder. (and you will still lose if the 351 is built to the same sort of level)
good luck on your quest. engine decisions are fun and no 2 opinions will be the same
There are pros and cons to each. Having bought in the last yearboth a rebuild crate motor and the Ford Racing crate motor you mention, I'd recommend the new Ford motor. You get all new parts, a roller cam and lifters, aluminum heads, a flywheel and water pump with aluminum heads and a ONE-PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL. It is a very streetable engine that will give anyone short of a racer as much power as they could use on the street.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Aussie- Im a newb, can you explain about the ratio for the rear end and the center? Also, what suspension do you reccomend? I am going engine shopping over the weekend and also going to purchase a new tranny and a rear.
ok,
diffs for Fords are typically 8" for early mustangs and 9" for later and/or big engined ones. 9" is stronger = better for increased power over stock. You need to figure out what you already have. Post pics and someone here can tell you.
Single spinners put all the power through the wheel with the least resistance. If you break traction, one wheel will spin and the other will do nothing. There are various forms of limiting or even locking both back wheels so they both take equal power...gives you more traction initially and both wheels spin if you break traction. My personal favorite is the detroit truetrac which is a geared limited slip diff. Having both back wheels locked all the time on a street car is not desirable as the wheels need to turn at different speeds when you go round a corner. They are usually used in track applications.
ratio in simple terms is the number of drive shaft revolutions to give one full rotation of the back wheels.
Typical Ford ratios include 2.78, 3.00, 3.20, 3.55, 3.73, 4.11.
The higher the number the faster you launch, but the lower the top speed you will have. If you like to cruise and/or do a lot of highway, choose a lower number like 3.00. If you want to drag race it choose a 4.11 or higher. Many of the guys have 3.55 as a good compromise. In practical terms, with a 3.00 your engine will be doing about 2600rpm with 3.00 at 65mph and 3650rpm for the same speed on 4.11. (guide only - i made assumptions about your tire sizes)
Suspension depends on what you wanna spend and what you want to use the car for. You can rebuild as standard or beef it up for better handling. Tell us a bit more about what you want the car to be when it grows up
diffs for Fords are typically 8" for early mustangs and 9" for later and/or big engined ones. 9" is stronger = better for increased power over stock. You need to figure out what you already have. Post pics and someone here can tell you.
Single spinners put all the power through the wheel with the least resistance. If you break traction, one wheel will spin and the other will do nothing. There are various forms of limiting or even locking both back wheels so they both take equal power...gives you more traction initially and both wheels spin if you break traction. My personal favorite is the detroit truetrac which is a geared limited slip diff. Having both back wheels locked all the time on a street car is not desirable as the wheels need to turn at different speeds when you go round a corner. They are usually used in track applications.
ratio in simple terms is the number of drive shaft revolutions to give one full rotation of the back wheels.
Typical Ford ratios include 2.78, 3.00, 3.20, 3.55, 3.73, 4.11.
The higher the number the faster you launch, but the lower the top speed you will have. If you like to cruise and/or do a lot of highway, choose a lower number like 3.00. If you want to drag race it choose a 4.11 or higher. Many of the guys have 3.55 as a good compromise. In practical terms, with a 3.00 your engine will be doing about 2600rpm with 3.00 at 65mph and 3650rpm for the same speed on 4.11. (guide only - i made assumptions about your tire sizes)
Suspension depends on what you wanna spend and what you want to use the car for. You can rebuild as standard or beef it up for better handling. Tell us a bit more about what you want the car to be when it grows up
Haha, I dont think its a 3" rear end....
It probably has a 8" if its a v8 car, or a 7.8" if its the I6. I spent about $2700 doing my entire rear suspension/9" swap. I used all new components and got adjustable racing shocks, a 9" posi, Moser 31 spline axles, disc brakes, braided brake lines, and reverse eye leaf springs.
btw... I would do like others have said and get a break down of the parts and stuff for each of the motors first, but probably go with the 351.
It probably has a 8" if its a v8 car, or a 7.8" if its the I6. I spent about $2700 doing my entire rear suspension/9" swap. I used all new components and got adjustable racing shocks, a 9" posi, Moser 31 spline axles, disc brakes, braided brake lines, and reverse eye leaf springs. btw... I would do like others have said and get a break down of the parts and stuff for each of the motors first, but probably go with the 351.


