battery still dying!!!!
ok i have already posted about this same problem with my car but i figured id make a new one.
ok so im having a problem with my battery. it wont stay charged.
this is what ive tried so far:
battery: new, took to sears, had it tested, they say its good
voltage regulator: new
solenoid: new
alternator:new
ok batteries should be at about 12.6v to start an engine and then when started they should be at about 13.5v when running RIGHT???
mine is at 12.2 now so i hook up the jumper cables to another car, get out my volt meter and it says about 13.1 or 13.2 volts, so i crank it up. then it just starts going down after that. isnt an alternator supposed to bring it up to 13.5 or higher???
I HATE MESSING WITH ELECTRICAL STUFF!!! but i do wish i new how to so im willing to learn
ok so im having a problem with my battery. it wont stay charged.
this is what ive tried so far:
battery: new, took to sears, had it tested, they say its good
voltage regulator: new
solenoid: new
alternator:new
ok batteries should be at about 12.6v to start an engine and then when started they should be at about 13.5v when running RIGHT???
mine is at 12.2 now so i hook up the jumper cables to another car, get out my volt meter and it says about 13.1 or 13.2 volts, so i crank it up. then it just starts going down after that. isnt an alternator supposed to bring it up to 13.5 or higher???
I HATE MESSING WITH ELECTRICAL STUFF!!! but i do wish i new how to so im willing to learn
take the alterantor to autzone or advance auto and have it tested, if the battery drains while running its not charging. If the alt test good try another regulator if that does't fix it test the wires and ignition switch.
many years ago I had the same problem with a 74 grand torino I had a auto elec shop test the wires. Elec. is my weakest area on cars but I think you test resitance looking for an open(high resitance) or shorts to other contacts
Remove the battery ground to engine cable and clean it and both places where it terminates. When you re-attach the cable to the engine, put in a new lock washer. Use a battery terminal cleaning brush on the terminal and cable. Remove and clean the battery to solenoid cable the same way, with the brush.
Yes, you should be getting at least 14 volts when the car is running.I don't understand the reason for testing with jumper cables to another car.
Jim
Yes, you should be getting at least 14 volts when the car is running.I don't understand the reason for testing with jumper cables to another car.
Jim
no i had to hook up the jumper cables to charge my battery because mine was only at 12.2 volts. i tested it after i got my car started. to see what the battery did while the car was running. now i know that it isnt doing what it should.
Have you verified the wiring going to the alernator is hooked up up properly? Do you have a wiring diagram(WDM) for your car?
Do you have the wires connected to the correct side of the solonoid for power to the V reg ( my WDM shows 3 wires on one side an just the saterte cable on the other side)?
If you can measure the voltage out of the alteror at the large connection it should be 13.5 V or higher with the engine running.
Do you have 12 volts on the white wire going to the alternator? ( this is the v reg control circuit)
In the old days we used to short the s and f terminals at the Vreg plug and force the alernator to "full field" to check it's output ( 13.5 volts and higher and it should whine)
Do you have the wires connected to the correct side of the solonoid for power to the V reg ( my WDM shows 3 wires on one side an just the saterte cable on the other side)?
If you can measure the voltage out of the alteror at the large connection it should be 13.5 V or higher with the engine running.
Do you have 12 volts on the white wire going to the alternator? ( this is the v reg control circuit)
In the old days we used to short the s and f terminals at the Vreg plug and force the alernator to "full field" to check it's output ( 13.5 volts and higher and it should whine)


