Many of you know that a kid kicked in my driver's side rear quarter panel a few months ago. Well, I only have basic insurance, so I have to pay for the repair out of my own pocket. I really suck at body work, so I am having it done by a pro. The first estimate was $1,100 and the 2nd estimate was $550.00 so naturally I went with the cheaper one. It is a local guy, and his work is excellent. So, by the time you guys get here on August 4th Ol' Yeller will be back to normal. The first shot is the wrinkled quarter panel, and the second is where the valance meets the panel. Is there any way to get that valance to match the panel?
I am buying the paint from www.towerpaint.com because they match perfectly. The problem is that the paint only costs 14 bux, but to ship it is 40 bux because it is considered Hazardous Material. Go figure. [:@]
I am also going to take off the bumper, tail light, quarter panel chrome, etc. in order to save some money on the repair. I'll be glad to get the old girl back to normal looking.

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Is it a big dent, if not you could try the hair dyer and compressed air can method for popping the dent out

 

Look at the pic. It is all wrinkled, so will need some pro work.

 

oh didnt see thouse when you first posted sorry.... ouch that looks pretty bad why'd he kick it ?? steal his girlfriend : P yeah i dont know you could try taking it off and use a hammer and block if you
plan on replacing it or you could take it to your local body shop and see what they think

 

Glen,
There is a stud attached to the lower edge of the valance that goes into the lower well and is held by a nut and sealed. Want one?
Jim

 

Sure. The other side is the same way. Maybe the body guys didn't put that on when I had the body done 12 years ago. PM sent to you with my addy.

 

Is this block doo dad what you are talking about Jim? Whatever it is, it is keeping the valance from mating up to the rear quarter panel. See how much of a gap there is?


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Something doesn't quite look right with the panel Glen. The bracket should only be about 1/2" to 3/4" off of the valence. The retaining bolt has a sort of sheet metal clip attached to it and slips into the bracket from the side that faces the front of the vehicle and gets held captive and keeps it from spinning. My valence developed a small gap on one side that I was able to close up by bending the bracket back just a touch.

It may be a PITA, but sinc you're having the body work done anyway, you may want to remove the bumper and rear valence so you can get a better idea of what is going on in there. Besides the 10 or so screws at the top of the panel and the one for each bumper guard, there is the outer retaining bolt on each endthat Jim mentioned. If you open your trunk and reach down low into each well (you may have to remove your spare and the trunk filler board), you'll feel the nut.

Good luck!
Jeff

[edit] I just noticed that you have back-up lights on your '65, which is less common for that year, so your valence may be slightly different than mine at the bracket, though I can't see how.

 

Jeff,
Same basic design for 64 to 66 - variations are: no holes, holes for back-up lights, holes for exhaust and holes for both exhaust and back-up lights.
Glen,
Is there a keyhole shaped hole in the corner? There should be a corresponding round (or square) one in the rear fender quarter, down low. Jeff's directions are right on but it looks like it was missing.
I'm going to my 65 and take a picture.
Jim

 

Don't get on me for not washing Ol' Yeller, but here are a couple of pics of the problem area. The first one clearly shows that I have backup lights. The second one shows that area in question.You can see the two dimples where two screws are holding that wedge in there, and is keeping the valance from mating up to the quarter panel. Why is that friggin wedge even in there?

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