http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa229/backsplatter/

1970 mach 1.

sorry for the picture quality. It's from my phone.

The outer frame rail extension is definately rusted through in front of the wheel.

http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/a...rame_front.jpg

The front and rear aprons are rusted through at the weld with the shock tower on both sides.

I also need to replace some floorboards. Along with wheelhouse in the back, quarter panel work/etc.

questions:
1. where to start?

2. Where else should I be looking for rust?

3. how feasible is it to just replace the outer frame rail extesion? I suppose till I get the floor boards out I can't see too much more of the frame rails.

 

Big job. I quess that I would start at the front and work towards the back.

Don't let the amount of work overwelm you. Do one project then when it is done congratulate yourself and move on to the next.

 

Thanks for the words of encouragment.

I've had this car for 22 years and I figured it was about time to get it all squared away.

My main thought is to start working at the front of the car first. Get that all taken care of then move backwards down the car.

How much body parts (apron, frame rail extension, etc) can I safely remove at a time and not worry as much with messing up the alignment of the frame?

 

There is some good information on replacing your floorpans in the FAQ section.
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/...1_pan_replace/

hope this helps
Jeff

 

Hmm, good question. I do not know. Removing the front aprons is not bad. Removing the rear aprons I think might have more structural significance and you may want to add some temporary bracing.

With my car the right side frame rail under the battery box was rusted out. However, it was only the outer portion that the bumper bracket bolts too. I was able to cut out the bad portion and have a partial outer extension section that I purchased the I am going to weld back in. You may be able to do the same thing.

 

Design some fixtures to maintain the frame dimension before you get into the 'self-destruct' mode. Ford had tooling holes in the frame rails that you should make use of. If you don't have a 70 Mustang service manual, you should get one. It has the frame alignment dimensions.
Jim

 

Have you thought about using a rotisserie and taking the car all the way down? With that much (blurry rust) it appears you are in trouble, and that it has gone passed just replacing one floor pan at a time. You have a lot of body parts to replace, and the use of a rotisserie is extremely useful in these cases. We have an article in the FAQ about how to build your own. And, don't tell me you don't have a welder or don't know how to weld.

 

I was considering a rotisserie.

I do have a welder and some basic knowledge but I was really considering taking a class at a community college to get a little more practice with this since the welds are so important. Just checked and they are starting up in a few weeks.

You must be reading my mind.

Let me find the charger for the camera and I'll get some clearer shots of what I'm talking about.

 

OK, now you are on the right track. You are also going to need some room to work, At least a 2 car garage and kick every body out.

 

Ok, I found the stupid charger for my camera.

I took some more pictures and updated phtobucket collection here.

http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/a...ter/?start=all

Specifically what I was asking before with the rust/frame damage here.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/PDR_1354.jpg

I went ahead and removed a majority of the driver's side floarboard. It wasn't holding too much together anyway.

The passenger side I think I can get away with a short floorboard and kick panel above it. Not too sure about the torque box though.