Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

oil change...

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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 12:46 AM
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Default oil change...

Ok i have about 100 miles on my rebuild 351 winsor in my 1969 mach 1... i need to do a oil change... and i have the break in oil in it.. what type of oil do i use.. i need to changed the oil then wait another 500 miles then do another oil change... right.... what kind of oil can i use after the break in oil...
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 01:03 AM
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Default RE: oil change...

the seemingly accepted way to go is dino oil after break in and change frequently untill the oil remains clean or after the break in period. then you can go synthetic if you like or stick to dino, its all preference from there
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 01:07 AM
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Default RE: oil change...

Great question, are you asking for the breakin oil or long term? personally, I have never been disappointed with synthetic. After the break in, with the new motor, tight clearances, I'd use 10w/30, maybe 10w/40 if your in a very hot climate. I've always preferred castrol syntec. . . . and John Force.
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 01:21 AM
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Just use a good 10W30 dino oil after the break in. Run that for a thou or so, then change to Synthetic.
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 11:26 AM
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Default RE: oil change...

What is the break in oil,, and what is the break in cycle for a freshly built 351? I have been wondering about this,, will it be safe to break in on the freeway, driving every day?
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 12:05 PM
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Default RE: oil change...

just vary the speeds a little and dont beat the snot outta it.
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 03:53 PM
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No one can jump on this bandwagon, but I'll say it again... An engineering bud of mine was paid by his employer (printing presses) to find the best lubricant for reducing metal-on-metal friction. He tested dino, synthetics and combinations with additives. There was one combination that accepted frictional pressures better and longer than all the others. A company named Lubri-loy makes an additive called Revive and if you add one ounce per quart to your crankcase 10W-30, it's like a magic trick. He now puts it in everything he owns: his Viper, his GTX 440, his Ford truck, his Shelby... I can't wait for someone to do some more commercialized testing to confirm this. Until it's mainstream though, it'll be hard for you to act on this. Do a Google and see what comes up.
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 03:59 PM
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ORIGINAL: my77stang

just vary the speeds a little and dont beat the snot outta it.
Yeah, the worst thing you can do while breaking in a new or rebuilt engine is to hit freeway and put the cruise control at 70 MPH and run for hours at that speed. For some reason, the car will run great at 70 after that, but will be pulling hard to get over that. The advice I was given by my older brother who is pretty much an expert in automotive technology is to take the car out on short trips. Get on the freeway and go for a few miles, then exit and get back on. Varying the speed is probably the best advice anyone can give you.
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 04:34 PM
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Default RE: oil change...

ok thanks guys but about the DINO oil... what is that all about... whats dino oil...?
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 04:42 PM
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ORIGINAL: Loza_69Mach1

ok thanks guys but about the DINO oil... what is that all about... whats dino oil...?
Just regular petroleum oil. Dino stands for Dinosaur, and the old theory is that dinosaurs and leaves and trees rotted and made oil. So, now we are pumping up black crude from under the ground where dinosaurs used to roam. It's all BS, but the term sticks. The brand Rotella that is sold at Shell gas stations seems to be the agreed on best dino oil.And the Wix and Motorcraft filters seem to be the best choice because of price and quality. Research Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline and Mobil1 synthetic oils to choose after you get through running a thousand or so miles on that Rotella. The reason you run dino oil after the break-in oil is to help set the rings better than synthetic. I don't know if that is the truth, but that is the word out there.



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