Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

289-2V stumble question

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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 03:03 PM
  #21  
restomod87's Avatar
restomod87
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Joined: May 2007
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Default RE: 289-2V stumble question

This may or may not be good news to you but I will give you a similar example and it could be your problem as well... What condition are your heads in? and your block and engine itself?... I was having a really bad stumble/hesitation and couldn't figure it out, i had just installed a new carb and assumed it was a vacuum leak...Come to find out, 3-4 days later my 289 threw a rod due to a bent valve at the top of the cylinder (which was also the cause of the seemingly apparent vacuum leak)...Your problem could just be a carb in need of adjustment, but i thoguht i'd put my .02 in just since i didn't see any other posts as this perhaps being a possiblity. good luck
Old Jul 31, 2007 | 06:08 PM
  #22  
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mrsinister84
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5
Default RE: 289-2V stumble question

ok, I said it before in my other response, pull the vacuum line off of the distributor advance and then crack the throttle little by little. mine did the exact same and I found that by accident. The rubber diaphram in the advance unit was hard and did not move and the best part of it all, it was a single port advance on a set-up that was for a dual port and the P/O had also removed the thermal vacuum switch, gotta love it. My car had sat for over 6 years and $300 later it runs like it is brand new!
Old Jul 31, 2007 | 07:58 PM
  #23  
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66stang289
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 9
Default RE: 289-2V stumble question

OK - the idle mixture screws are adjusted properly- no change to the hesitation - still there. The carb is rebuilt - no worn throttle shafts or anything loose to cause a stumble condition. No manifold nor carb gasket leaks - indicated bythe normal (20-21 inches Hg) vacuum gage reading at idle. Per the previous post(s) the distributor vacuum advance is new - and holds pressure when vacuum applied with my Mity-Vac.
Also, due to the correct compression test results and the correct manifold vacuum at idle - and the fact the engine runs strong off-idle all the way up inRPM's - I'll assume the heads and block - in fact all of the related machined mating / sealing interface surfaces are OK - no warpage or leaks.
Given the relative good (based on recent testing)'pumping' ability of the engine as the basis - I'll concentrate on going back over the initial timing and carb settings combination, such as the accelerator pump and linkage.
Great suggestions - keep 'em coming!
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