Automatic Choke on '68 289
My '68 Mustang has a 289 w/2100 2V Autolite carb.
Can anyone tell me the best way to remove the heater tube on the automatic choke systemthat runs from the air cleaner to the exhaust manifold on the right cylinder bank? From the looks of the new replacementtube I ordered, it appears it just slides into the fitting on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. But the fitting and tube on my car are quite rusty and before I start yanking and twisting on the old tube, I thought I better ask.
Also, I would like to remove the fitting and replace it and the screen inside the exhaust manifold. The replacement plug I got from NPD is not threaded so itappears that it slides up into the manifold from the bottom. Of course the fittingon my car is rusty and I suspect will be hard to remove from the manifold. Any tips on how to do this? Am I going to have to heat the exhaust manifold with a torch to get the old plug out?
Thanks for you help.
Keith
Can anyone tell me the best way to remove the heater tube on the automatic choke systemthat runs from the air cleaner to the exhaust manifold on the right cylinder bank? From the looks of the new replacementtube I ordered, it appears it just slides into the fitting on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. But the fitting and tube on my car are quite rusty and before I start yanking and twisting on the old tube, I thought I better ask.
Also, I would like to remove the fitting and replace it and the screen inside the exhaust manifold. The replacement plug I got from NPD is not threaded so itappears that it slides up into the manifold from the bottom. Of course the fittingon my car is rusty and I suspect will be hard to remove from the manifold. Any tips on how to do this? Am I going to have to heat the exhaust manifold with a torch to get the old plug out?
Thanks for you help.
Keith
Keith,
You bet - rust is standard. The best way to work on that choke fitting is to remove the exhaust manifold. The tubes have a nasty tendancy to break off in the manifold. If they do, a 1/4 inch drill run thru the hole will remove any leftover tubing and set the hole up for the new tube. That piece on the bottom is pressed in so in theory, it will come out. in theory. I left mine alone in my 65 (the 'K' car'smanifolddoesn't have one) but I think that soaking it with some rust solvent, Liquid Wrench or something like that, and taking advantage of that 1/4 inch hole to use as a place to put a drift pin to twist, after a bit of light pounding, it off.There may be just enough material on the top to drill the hole to 5/16 inch for a stronger twisting tool.The removal is not covered in the Mustang Shop Manual so let us know how you made out. I may want to replace the one in my 65.
Jim
You bet - rust is standard. The best way to work on that choke fitting is to remove the exhaust manifold. The tubes have a nasty tendancy to break off in the manifold. If they do, a 1/4 inch drill run thru the hole will remove any leftover tubing and set the hole up for the new tube. That piece on the bottom is pressed in so in theory, it will come out. in theory. I left mine alone in my 65 (the 'K' car'smanifolddoesn't have one) but I think that soaking it with some rust solvent, Liquid Wrench or something like that, and taking advantage of that 1/4 inch hole to use as a place to put a drift pin to twist, after a bit of light pounding, it off.There may be just enough material on the top to drill the hole to 5/16 inch for a stronger twisting tool.The removal is not covered in the Mustang Shop Manual so let us know how you made out. I may want to replace the one in my 65.
Jim
Here's a link that covers this rebuild.
http://428cobrajet.com/files/choke-stove-rebuild.pdf
http://428cobrajet.com/files/choke-stove-rebuild.pdf
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




