Ok so I really do know a heck of alot of jack squat about fixing my car. I need new bushings for my car but which ones? What type are best? I've seen prices anywhere between 100 to 800 and more for the sets. I don't want to get more than I need but I don't want to leave anything else out either.

My premise is to get a nice ride out of my car and enjoy driving it. It's a 65 302 automatic. Does anyone have any links to bushings. How do I know what I need? I'm just going to assume all the parts that normally wear out in a suspension are worn out. What have you guys used or what would you use if you were redoing yours today?

Thanks everyone.

 

http://p-s-t.com.ourweblink.com/default.aspx

That's where I got the kit for my car. They're better than the stock rubber bushings. I'd suggest getting a whole kit, that way you'll get everything you need and you won't forget anything.

 

put your stang on jackstands, and do a good inspection. Look at the upper lower control arms, shocks, sway bar, strut rods,motor mounts, and then move to the back, and check the leaf springs and shocks. If you see broken rubber in the joints, cracked rubber, uneven ware, replace it. Personally, polyurethene bushings are great for performance, but don't give at all, so you feel every little bump and hole, and contour in the road.

 

ok so are you saying
1. http://p-s-t.com.ourweblink.com/pc-2...1964-2002.aspx or 2.http://p-s-t.com.ourweblink.com/pc-2...1-1964-78.aspx or
3. http://p-s-t.com.ourweblink.com/pc-7...g-1964-73.aspx
I don't know what I need. I don't want to go overboard and not sure what to look for to see if I don't need something from the set. Is there anything in the rear end that I should be aware of for replacing?

 

hmm well actually I was looking for a mild daily driver so what do you suggest for a nicer ride?

 

rubber bushings have a softer ride but flex more under stress the urethane type are stiffer dont flex as much and last longer but use the grease that comes with them or that squeek. also look around http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/ he has some nice parts.

 

An old trick is to use teflon tape to wrap the bushings and stabilizer bars. Did mine 20 years ago and have not heard a squeek yet. Plus the teflon tape does not work its way out.

 

There are several bushings in your car's front end. They are:

Lower control arm bushings, upper control arm bushing's (which are metal on your yr), Strut rod bushings, spring seat shaft bushings, idler arm bushings, in addition you have sway bar link bushings and inner & outer tie rod ends, upper Ball joints, lower ball joints, pitman arm.

I'm not trying to scare you but I'm trying to point out that all of these things work in conjunction to make your car steer correctly. Therefore, think about doing it this way:
Replace the lower control arms to get the lower bushings and ball joints.The upper control arms since these all have shafts that wear out and get the upper ball joints as well. And, the spring seats. Finish off with the strut rod bushings and links.

Take a look at the tie rod ends for damaged boots, and excessive play (don't squeeze them with pliers- they're spring loaded and are supposed to move) do the same with the idler arm and pitman arms. Essentially movement up and down or sideways equals tire wear and steering looseness. (and while your at it buy the 90 degree grease adapters for the upper control arms).
You can buy all of this bolt on stuff from NPD or similar sellers for $400 or less. Cal Mustangs sells a Hiway classics kit (FSK4) for $299.00..Best of all this is all bolt on stuff that's essentially pre-assemblied.

 

You also have bushings in the eyes of the leaf springs and at the chassis-side pivots of the shackles. Since they help define axle steer, their conditionalso has an effect on overall steering feel/behavior.

Norm