On my new 302 rebuild I adjusted the valves when I put the valve train together. However, I'm dreading doing the final adjust when the engine is running (possibly within the week!). Anyway, a buddy of mine said there are some clips you can purchase that will keep the oil in the car and not squirt all over me, the car, and my garage while trying to adjust when I get it running. He told me to go to Checker, which I did, and they do not have anything like this. I did a couple of google searches but I must be not using the right search keys because I do not find anything like this available. I have yet to call Summit Racing (they seem to have everything) but thought I'd try here next. Anyone know where I can get a set of these so I can get my fresh engine dialed in without getting oil all over the place?
Thanks!

 

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I've never done any adjusting of the hydraulic lifters beyond the initial adjustment. For solid lifters, I got a valve cover from the wrecking yard and cut the top off of it so the oil didn't get all over the place.

 

Ford hydraulic lifters with rocker assemblies aren't adjustable. You cinch them down to torque spec and thats it. Besides, how could you adjust something that floats on an oil hydraulic?

Solid lifters, different animal.

 

That's not totally true. You have to get them initially adjusted and here is how you do that. http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html

 

That seems like a whole lot of something to achieve a whole lot of nothing. The oil maintains the zero tolerence during the rocker/tappet operation. If there is slop in the assembly then a part of the assembly needs to be replaced. But hey, that's the way I was taught, and that's the way it has always worked for me.

 

If you adjusted the hydraulic valvetrain properly the first time, you shouldn't need to adjust it again. And even with solid it doesn't have to be done with the engine running, the manufacturer will have cold/hot lash settings. And there is a right and wrong way toset non-adjustablehydraulic lifters, simply torquing them down to the spec is wrong, that doesn't garuntee the proper lifter preload, you generally tighten it by hand to 0 lash THEN torque to spec, and it should take a certain amount of rotation to reach the specified torque for the capscrew, usually between 1/4 and 1 full turn of the capscrew to reach the torque spec, and that gives the proper .020-.060 lifter preload

 

Michael, even though it is hydraulic, it still has to be initially adjusted. You wouldn't just throw some lifters on the top of that engine and not get it close to specs now would you?

 

Hey Glen,at some point Ford switched designs so you basically crank the rocker arm all the way down until it bottoms out. If it is out of adjustment you have to get different length pushrods. So, you are both right!

Regardless, with hydraulic lifters, I think you only need to do an initial adjustment (whether it be by pushrod length or adjusting the rocker nut) and don't have to worry about running the engine to temp and getting out the feeler gauges.

 

Wow, didn't think this was so controversial. I've always adjusted them on the stand, then adjusted them again once the engine is running. Yes, I agree that the reason for hydraulic lifters is so the oil keeps the lash. You still have to get them close and I have always been taught to re-adjust them after the engine has been started.
The website is a great explanation, thank you Soaring (and everyone else).
D