Brake Line Thread
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,483
From: Fontana, California
RE: Brake Line Thread
My 66 has a brass adapter fitting in the MC to a single brake line that goes to the distrubution block on the left aft fender apron. I don't recommend using any compounds on the threads. the flare is what keeps the joint tight. Good hunting.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 551
RE: Brake Line Thread
ORIGINAL: dozierstang
+1, Don't use sealant here. Only anti-seize, as if you were to pull the line later on, it prevents galling. Tighten it down snug, if it leaks then snug it a little more. Stainless is harder than carbon but galls much, much easier.
This is a lesson, if you put any stainless bolts, lines, etc.on your car, use anti-seize. You will be much happier when you decide to pull the part and you don't have to drill out a stainless bolt. Trust me, stainless is a booger to drill, cut, etc.
+1, Don't use sealant here. Only anti-seize, as if you were to pull the line later on, it prevents galling. Tighten it down snug, if it leaks then snug it a little more. Stainless is harder than carbon but galls much, much easier.
This is a lesson, if you put any stainless bolts, lines, etc.on your car, use anti-seize. You will be much happier when you decide to pull the part and you don't have to drill out a stainless bolt. Trust me, stainless is a booger to drill, cut, etc.
I like to use teflon tape. I love that stuff. Wrap all poly-urathane bushings and whatever goes through them with it. No squeaks....ever. Plus it isn't messy. And it no longer cost $25.00 a roll like it did inh 1970.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,469
From: AR
RE: Brake Line Thread
ORIGINAL: mikethebike
I like to use teflon tape. I love that stuff. Wrap all poly-urathane bushings and whatever goes through them with it. No squeaks....ever. Plus it isn't messy. And it no longer cost $25.00 a roll like it did inh 1970.
I like to use teflon tape. I love that stuff. Wrap all poly-urathane bushings and whatever goes through them with it. No squeaks....ever. Plus it isn't messy. And it no longer cost $25.00 a roll like it did inh 1970.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 185
From: Lakeland, Fl
RE: Brake Line Thread
UPDATE: The line was installed correectly, but it wont tighten down. When I loosen the nut into the master cylinder the pipe pushes in about 1 1/2 inches. Its not catching on anything. I decided to find and add the brass adapter as mentioned before, but it still continues to leak. Any ideas?
Could I used the tape on the brass fitting and connect everything else as is?
Could I used the tape on the brass fitting and connect everything else as is?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 359
From:
RE: Brake Line Thread
Man that socket sounds too deep. They should only be about 1/2" deep. 1 1/2" sounds like too much to me even after installing and loosening it up. Try the brass adapter. The adapter should be solid so sealant is OK there but none really needed. I am sure brake fluid will eat up most sealants anyways. Try the adapter and make sure it is shallow on the female end and long on the male end. Should do the trick. NAPA is good for those. They have a lot to chose from.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,469
From: AR
RE: Brake Line Thread
As I have said before, brakes can be a PITA,,, you will need to determine what you are working with, and then buy the right addapters....
Some will need copper washers, some will occasionally use pipe thread. Sealant is not an option IMO....
The adapter has an entry and an exit, thus there are two places that have to be right, and there is more than one option for each end...
I learned this through trial and error in my youth,,, but it can be confusing even today.. I usually can tell what fittings I need by doing a visual inspection, but this is hard to do online....
Hopefully the master cylinder manufacturer has not thrown metric fittings into the mix as well....
From your description, I am going to assume that your master cylinder is not set up for direct connection to the brake lines. This can be confirmed by looking into the ports to see if there is a "cone" inside for the end of the line to seat on... my guess is that there is not one.
Some will need copper washers, some will occasionally use pipe thread. Sealant is not an option IMO....
The adapter has an entry and an exit, thus there are two places that have to be right, and there is more than one option for each end...
I learned this through trial and error in my youth,,, but it can be confusing even today.. I usually can tell what fittings I need by doing a visual inspection, but this is hard to do online....
Hopefully the master cylinder manufacturer has not thrown metric fittings into the mix as well....
From your description, I am going to assume that your master cylinder is not set up for direct connection to the brake lines. This can be confirmed by looking into the ports to see if there is a "cone" inside for the end of the line to seat on... my guess is that there is not one.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 185
From: Lakeland, Fl
RE: Brake Line Thread
You are right JMD, PITA. I have a local parts dealer bringing in a new cylinder by 4PM today so I can inspect it to make sure there isnt anything different. What baffles me is the previous cylinder was a direct connect, but as you said this one does not apper to be one even though they appeared to be the same thing (Previous one turned in for core).
You are exactly right on the sealant. If its blocking air you will just blow it out once you slam on the brakes and then lose all your fluid.
You are exactly right on the sealant. If its blocking air you will just blow it out once you slam on the brakes and then lose all your fluid.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 551
RE: Brake Line Thread
ORIGINAL: JMD
That is a bitchin idea Mike, I never would have thought of that. Awsome,,,,
ORIGINAL: mikethebike
I like to use teflon tape. I love that stuff. Wrap all poly-urathane bushings and whatever goes through them with it. No squeaks....ever. Plus it isn't messy. And it no longer cost $25.00 a roll like it did inh 1970.
I like to use teflon tape. I love that stuff. Wrap all poly-urathane bushings and whatever goes through them with it. No squeaks....ever. Plus it isn't messy. And it no longer cost $25.00 a roll like it did inh 1970.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 185
From: Lakeland, Fl
RE: Brake Line Thread
Well the parts store brought in a 67 master cylinder which was different. I decided to buy that one since it was a dual reservoir and installed last night. I have finished the lines since I need to go from a single input to dual, but it will be alot safer. Both inputs on the 67 have the flanges so I still dont know what was wrong with the other.Thanks everyone for all your help.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 359
From:
RE: Brake Line Thread
Hey if the MC you originally had was only one bowl instead of two then you will need a distribution block for the dual bowl. This is in order for the front and rear to get the fluid, a safety thing that ford did. If you loose pressure or fluid in one bowl, you will still have the other to stop by and the distribution block will adjust for that. Anyway, the dist. block for the 67 is like over $100, kind of pricey. I thought about getting one for my 67 but opted for just taking it apart, inspecting and cleaning good. You will also need to consider running separate lines for the rear or maybe you could mod it and run the line directly to the dist. block??? Not sure about your setup. Good luck.