I want to install traction bars on my 65 fastback...The Shelby's used override....Is that the better choice? What differences are there? And what are the pro's-con's of each style?

 

Many people, like myself, use an underride style "slapper" bar, mine are from Competition Engineering. If I had the money, I woulda gone with the Slide-a-links from Competition Engineering. If you got $360 + shipping, GET THE SLIDE-A-LINKS!! They make a typical leaf spring setup run like a 4-link, though not quite as well. Pinion angle is adjustable, as is pre-load, a whole mess of tunability. I know quite a few guys that are running 8's in the 1/4 with nothing more than drag shocks, a decent leaf spring and the Slide-a-link. It'll be the best bang for your buck setup. I wish I'd had the money to go with it to begin with. There's a lot more to suspension dynamics than just preventing axle wrap-up, you want the rear tires to plant hard, otherwise you just go up in smoke.

 

I'll definately check those out...thanks!

 

http://www.competitionengineering.co...?CatCode=13116

And you can get them from Jegs/Summit for around $360, everyone I know who uses them loves them and have no traction problems

 

The '65 had overrider bars but the '66 had underrider Traction Masters. Although there are cheaper knockoffs, the originals are still available for only $105. You will have to weld the front mount to your subframe.

http://tractionmaster.com/app.html

 

Thanks gothand,...Those look perfect. Will they still allow for the exhaust to be exiting in front of the rear wheel?

 

I don't know about the exhaust clearance. The front of the traction masters weld on near the front spring bolt and hang down about 3" or so.

 

Those traction bars aren't really traction bars though. They prevent axle wrap-up, but don't actually transfer any of that torque into the chassis to achieve weight transfer or push the axle down to plant the tires. If you already have no wheel hop, those type of traction bars won't do anything. Slapper bars work much better, they both prevent axle wrap up, and push upwards on the chassis to assist in vehicle weight transfer to the rear while at the same time pushing the rear axle downward and planting the tires. Cal-Tracs and Slide-a-links work even better(though thr Slide-a-links are adjustable and much better than Cal-Tracs) by not only assisting in weight transfer and downward axle movement, but by affecting the way the leaf spring moves and changing the rear axle's instant center(in a limited manner when compared to a 4-link) and moving it close under the vehicles center of gravity to increase the effective weight on the rear wheels. A 4-linksuspensionis the best by providing a tremendous amount of downward force and having a huge impact on instant center, moving the axle much closer to the center of mass on the car and providing a large amount of traction and weight transfer. For a leaf spring set up your best bet would be Slide-a-link traction bars, Cal-Tracs are 2nd, then slappers coming in 3rd. The under-ride style traction bars use the vehicle's chassis to absorb the energy of axle wrap-up, but doesn't use the energy of the torque to achieve any type of usable weight transfer or downward axle force. If all you want to do is prevent axle wrap-up they're fine, but they won't increase traction, only prevent wheel hop

 

so they are the best thing for guys who want to do burnouts with out wheel hop??

Seriously, my car gets off the line pretty well. Will spin the wheels at call if thats whats required and i dont get any wheel hop. the benefit of the slide-a-link is thereforeto reduce wheel spin by improving traction? If you do want to fry up can you still do it or are you just likely to break something else?

 

I don't agree with your assessment of Slapper bars. From my readings on the topic there is little difference in real world performance between the slapper and under ride style.
Here is some interesting reading on the topic.

http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

Jav