My 351 Cleveland won't rev above about 5,000 rpm. I originally thought it was an ignition issue because I had the original single points distributor still. But I just got rid of that and it still does the same thing. It really sounds like I am hitting a rev limiter right at 5 grand. My newest theory is valve float/bouncing. I don't have that big of a cam so I wouldn't think this would be a problem. Does this sound like it could be the problem? It's got the 2v heads.

 

Welcome Opie. You float the valves whenever you rev the engine past it's limit. Obviously, the limit for your engine is 5K RPM. With a change in your cam, you will see a big difference.

 

But I am still building power right up to that point. Then right at that point, there is nothing. It's not like a slow power drop as I get close to 5,000 rpm. It's an immediate change.

 

Yeah, that's how floating the valves feels. You are pulling, then all of a sudden it goes flat. Get with some pros at cam places like Comp Cam and discuss the issue with them.
http://www.compcams.com/DefaultWide.asp

 

sounds like you need heavey valve springs.

 

Exacly my thoughts,,, if you still have the orig. valve springs,,, they might just be sprung....

My younger son and Ichanged the valve springs on his truck about 2 weeks ago,,, it is not what I would consider a dificult job...

We bought an air fitting for the sparkplug hole to keep the valve in place with the retainers off, and a screw on spring compressor and went to town,, about a 2 hour job to install new springs and retainers.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

This will fit 3/8 or 7/16 studs,, I assume 3/8 on the Cleveland??

 

Not necessarily heavy valve springs, just better ones. If you get new springs, I'd recommend getting ahold of Comp like Soaring suggested, and finding out which of the Beehive springs will work for you. They use modest spring pressures but are a different than standard design, and they have EXCELLENT valve control and stability. And as long as you're replacing springs, you might as well spend the money and put a decent hydraulic roller cam in as well, you'll make quite a bit more power, it'll run better, you won't have the wear issues that occur with flat tappet cams, and you can sorta kill 2 birds with 1 stone, and remove the heads to replace the springs, which is easier in a way than wrestling with it while they're in the car.

And btw, what was your 60' with that thing at the track? And what cam do you have right now, and what heads?

 

My 60' time is over 2.5 seconds. I only have 2.73 gears with one wheel peal so I can't get out of the hole. I've got a set of 3.50 gears and a Detroit Locker ligned up though so that will help. I have stock 2V heads on the car and a mild street cam. I don't know the exact specs on the cam. Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

2.5? Good grief. Even with an open diff and 2.73's you should still be able to get that down lower, slip hard outta the hole and don't spin. If you can get down to a 2.0-2.1 60' you could get 13's out ofit. The locker and gears will help a lot though. I finally got my suspension dialed in now, so I know I can get below the 2.1** 60's I've had, and that's with a 3.00 gear and a manual trans, on street tires at 35+psi. That'll put it into the 12's

 

The track I have been running at is really bad. I get better traction on the street then I do there...I'm gonna try to run at a better track soon. I've got a pretty high stall converter in there so it really wants to spin off the line. I think I'll have pretty good times once I put new valve springs so I can rever over 5 grand and get the detroit locker so I get out of the whole. I'm also thinking of throwing some traction bars on it...