Hi,

After I decided not to convert to cable clutch (thanks for the replies to my previous post), I need to rebuild my factory linkage.

This is a 68 with a 302, 5 speed conversion, original bellhousing with 'push' type fork.

Here is the problem. As you can see on the pictures, I have very little clearance between the pedal to equilizer rod and the firewall. This is so bad that it touches the firewall when I depress the pedal...

I first thought, the rod was replaced with the wrong one. But it seems to be the correct one for the 68 Mustang from what I can see on parts catalogs.

Any idea is more than welcome?

Thanks
JC

[IMG]local://upfiles/39927/9DEED4DA4D2E4D4EBD017A47A32FD799.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/39927/FC0D240BC8B447DB80BA8DF1AB0FCECC.jpg[/IMG]

 

In the second picture, what is that white crap? And, what is that black rubber hose for?

 

It's probably litheum grease Glen. He put it on their to help in every way possible. Does that rod have flanges or washers on either side the slutch pedal? If you don't have a washer on the other side of that rod that cotter pin will shear off in a matter of no time. That rod can't be the right one. There is too much of a bind. Was that car converted from an auto sometime in it's life?
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Pull off the z-bar and make sure that the nylon bushing is not missing on the engine side pivot. If it is gone the bar can slide over causing you misalignment. My advice is to look at the pictures in NPD's catalog and order all new bushings and washers.

 

Not exactly the answer to your question, but if you are reworking the clutch linkage any way I have a recommendation. Make a new bar from scratch and put a 3/8" heim joint on each end, as well a 3/8" joint on the bottom clutch pin. I did that with my Linkage before I went hydraulic and it improved the feel of the clutch 100 fold. It also looks from the pictures that it would fix your clearance issues. I made mine by first buying two 3/8" grade 8 bolts, 1 LH thread and 1 RH thread. I then cut the heads off and ground the cut end to a point where the taper went back about 1/2". The two pieces were then clamped tip-to-tip in a piece of angle iron and welded together, after which the weld was ground down to make one nice looking solid piece. The only thing left to do was install a LH heim joint and jam nut on one end and a RH heim joint and jam nut on the other end and put it in the car. I had it that way for several years and it worked really well, not to mention it gave me the ability to adjust the clutch with out having to crawl under the car.

 

Thanks guys,
Yeah, the crap is white grease and there is no longer a washer on the cotter pin side. I know it's going to wear quickly...

I'm going to investigate the nylon bushing on the Z bar. As for the rod, it seems to be the correct one from what I see on NPD's catalog. However this doesn't mean I can't replace by something that works better.

I don't think the car was converted from automatic, but the engine was replaced. So it could be also that it is not exactly at in the same position as the previous one?

Thanks again
JC

 

By the way, if one of you could post a picture of the setting from a 68 V8 that would probably help me figure out the problem.

Thanks
JC

 

When I first saw the linkage, it looked like it was installed backwards. I looked at the 1968 Mustang Chassis Assembly Manual (and the Ford Car Parts Manual) and the drawings show that the bar is not the right one. The right angle attaching bends to the pedal and the 'Z' bar should go into both from the left. Your rod at the 'Z' bargoes in from the wrong side. Did it come from a Maytag washer?
Just for drill, I looked at some other rod drawings and you may have one from a Fairlane.
Jim

 

I'm totally confused.

Look at that : http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=F1844+01
Or this one: http://www.dallasmustang.com/page/pr...hp?product=684

Sounds like what I have.

However from the setup it 'feels like' I'd rather need something that looks like this :
http://www.dallasmustang.com/page/pr...hp?product=688

But why would I need a 69 clutch rod in a 68 mustang? Maybe I'm just asking myself too many questions and should just go ahead with buying a 69 rod

 

According to the Ford Car Parts Manual, the 67/68 rod is the same length as the 69/70rods used onthe 250 I-6and, with a different part number, the200 I-6 and small block V-8's. The one for big blocks is listed at 12 3/8 long. If you are not confused yet - wait. Look at your setup, first picture posted,and I think you will see if the rod was bent the other way, it would fit.
Jim