if NASCAR can drive 200+ mph and prolly 3000+ rpms then you can drive ur stang on the hwy at 60mph at 3000 rpms, you just need the right equipment to do so, i think you might want to invest in getting yourself an aluminum rad.... i too am suffering from overheating, so im not expert but after roding my rad changing the thermostat and adding water wetter. still a heating problem, my next step will prolly be anew alum rad with an eletric fan., tho my car is over heating at idle and slow moving traffic, but it also runs hotter then normal at high speeds... hope this will fix both our problems

 

well i got a quick question.... how do i install a water temp guage??? i have a stock 67 289 can i use electrical???

 

lucastrex:
Do you have any links to where you saw the problems with coolant filters? I'd like to check them out.

It would be time well spent to do some research on how the ignition system operates. The lack of noticeable issues does not mean your timing is optimum. Like it mentioned in one of the links I posted, overheating can be caused by lots of little problems as well as one giant problem. The way to solve these problems is to thoroughly inspect each possible cause and either fix them or rule them out.

I've always just asked for a lower radiator hose at the parts store and it had a spring in it. I was doing some reading earlier today that the springs are not as common because the hose manufacturers are making "reinforced" hoses. I don't know if it's true or not.
I've heard you want to avoid the universal flexible hoses if possible. They put extra strain on the radiator fittings and over time can break them.

Your engine should have no problems at all cruising at 3K RPM for extended periods of time. You just need to get your cooling situation under control.

JERM_1967stang:
You've got me there, I'm not sure where your engine has a good spot. Maybe someone can post a pic. In general, you want to put the sender near the thermostat. An electric gauge is fine, I prefer the mechanical units because they are cheaper and don't need as much wiring (just a light).

 

I've got a dumb question. What do I attach my universal shroud to. It's by spectre and didnt come with any instructions. The holes dont line up with anything to attach it to with the little zippy strips it came with. Do the zippies go through the core or something??? thanks.

 

Jcomp:

The "dirt" on the filter (no pun intended):
https://mustangforums.com/m_2919191/tm.htm

Still searching for lower hose with spring.

Maybe need to continue to adjust timing. If timing is off, does overheat happen right away, or could it take time to build like mine?

Did cooling sys. flush, new cap, replaced "open guts thermostat" with a 180. Now engine reaches operating temp. quicker thanks to the presence of a true thermostat, but still crosses 200 at sustained driving (rpm around 3000). Drove 15 mins. on highway at 3000 rpm at sustained 216 degrees.

Question: Would a 160 thermo. possibly keep temps down at same driving conditions, or is that not how a thermostat works? I mean, I know a 160 would begin the cooling process sooner, but remember...I had open (virtually no) thermostat and ran 220 degrees on highway. My reasoning is that the 160 will do nothing to help this situation. The problem lies elsewhere in either the engine tuning or inadequate cooling system components.

 

Jcomp, forgot to tell you I turned my fan off on the highway for a while, neither helped nor hurt as far as I could tell, if anything needle may have started to climb a little and "Nervous Nelly" turned fan back on.

 

Looks like you are going to have to get creative to mount it, then. Look at what other people have done to mount their shroud and it should give you some ideas. Have you tried calling Spectre and asking them?

 

I've done a little more research:
To check to see if your lower hose is collapsing (and therefore you need to worry about it), warm the engine up so the thermostat is open. Rev the engine up and watch the lower hose to see if it collapses. You'll see it if it does. If not, then don't worry about it. I looked at a couple of vehicles (chevy trucks) yesterday that didn't have springs in the lower hose, I guess it's the way things are being done now.

A cooler thermostat will not necessarily help with your overheating. The thermostat's job is to establish the engine's minimum operating temperature. If you are overheating with a 180 thermostat, you will still likely be overheating with the 160.

Look at it like this:
The engine puts X amount of waste heat in the coolant.
The cooling system is removing Y amount of waste heat from the coolant.
If X > Y, then you are overheating.
Otherwise you are fine.
All the cooling system "fixes" are to either reduce X or increase Y. Reduce X by adjusting the timing and fuel. Increase Y with a better radiator, more airflow, etc.


That's interesting about the fan having little effect at highway speeds. Did you try removing the shroud when you did the test? What size is the fan, meaning what is its diameter?

Have you cleaned or replaced the radiator yet? I still think you need to start there.


Jeremy

 

Jeremy,

Thanks, i'll check the hose that way next time i run her.
Thanks for clarifying the thermostat purpose.
I did not remove the shroud on the highway. I have a 15" plastic fan 8-blade like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

Decent enough, right?

I flushed the cooling system and noticed 2 things:
1. It wasn't as dirty as i thought...i think the red water wetter made it look brown to me, so this time i used the green colored additive. The system is cleaner now than before, but i can still see little debris at the top of the tubes. That concerns me a little in the event i get aluminum radiator; guess i better think about that upper hose filter if i do.

My good friend leaned in on the overheating issue by stating that my car is like a mild strip car; in his opinion it is barely streetable due to the 575 solid lifter cam,head work, gears, etc. Maybe i should stop messing around and put the best cooling components $ can buy (alum. radiator, high flow water pump). If it comes to that, should i do one at a time and witness results first before adding more?

Do you think the timing plays a part in the high rpm driving? If so,should i keep trying all different timing to see if it helps before spending $?

 

I don't think the shroud on that fan would be impeding airflow at highway speeds and the fan probably moves enough air. So we can rule out your fan for now, assuming it's functioning properly.

It would be interesting to see the results of a piece-by-piece cooling system upgrade, especially if you only replace the water pump with a high flow version. However, I think an upgraded radiator would be the best place to start. After that, you may not need to do the water pump.

On the coolant filter: I've never used one. I suggested you consider it due to the number of people in this forum that have had good luck with them and because your cooling system is dirty. Exactly what does the debris on the tops of the tubes look like?

Your timing and fuel mixture can also contribute to overheating but I think an in-depth discussion of them here is divergent to the purpose of this thread, which focuses on the cooling system itself. Maybe we need a new thread about ignition systems.