rear end identification and question
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 113
rear end identification and question
how would you go about telling the difference between an 8" and 9" rear end? I have tried looking up pictures, but I don't see any identifiers that stand out to me.
also, I had what I thought was a tranny problem, but it could bea rear end problem in my '65. I just drove a different '65 coupe auto where the trans. didn't clank as hard when I put it in drive or reverse as mine does. So, obvioulsy mine clunks pretty hard when putting into drive and reverse..but it also clunks pretty hard when I let off the gas, or give it gas. Any ideas on what to check first to diagnose? I have very minimal knowledge on rear ends. kthx.
also, I had what I thought was a tranny problem, but it could bea rear end problem in my '65. I just drove a different '65 coupe auto where the trans. didn't clank as hard when I put it in drive or reverse as mine does. So, obvioulsy mine clunks pretty hard when putting into drive and reverse..but it also clunks pretty hard when I let off the gas, or give it gas. Any ideas on what to check first to diagnose? I have very minimal knowledge on rear ends. kthx.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 85
From:
RE: rear end identification and question
ORIGINAL: VintageBlue
I had what I thought was a tranny problem, but it could bea rear end problem in my '65. I just drove a different '65 coupe auto where the trans. didn't clank as hard when I put it in drive or reverse as mine does. So, obvioulsy mine clunks pretty hard when putting into drive and reverse..but it also clunks pretty hard when I let off the gas, or give it gas. Any ideas on what to check first to diagnose? I have very minimal knowledge on rear ends. kthx.
I had what I thought was a tranny problem, but it could bea rear end problem in my '65. I just drove a different '65 coupe auto where the trans. didn't clank as hard when I put it in drive or reverse as mine does. So, obvioulsy mine clunks pretty hard when putting into drive and reverse..but it also clunks pretty hard when I let off the gas, or give it gas. Any ideas on what to check first to diagnose? I have very minimal knowledge on rear ends. kthx.
u-joints (in the driveshaft)
pinion flange (where driveshaft meets rear axle)
Slip Yoke (where Driveshaft meets Transmission)
Backlash (gear mesh)(probably means incorrect gear setup or really worn out)
5th Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,266
From: Australia
RE: rear end identification and question
from your description, what you have is too much backlash.
you turn the driveshaft one way till you meet some resistance and then turn it back the other way (car in neural). I think you'll find you have 1 -2" and you want not more than 1/4 - 1/2" IMO.
your diff is almost certain to be a 8"
I'll post a pic of the 9 in a sec
you turn the driveshaft one way till you meet some resistance and then turn it back the other way (car in neural). I think you'll find you have 1 -2" and you want not more than 1/4 - 1/2" IMO.
your diff is almost certain to be a 8"
I'll post a pic of the 9 in a sec
5th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,106
From:
RE: rear end identification and question
Look at your U joints first, what you describe is classsic symptoms for worn out U joints. One easy to tell a 8 from an 9 is this, can you get a socket on all the nuts that remove the carrier. An 8" you can anda 9" will require the use of a wrench. For one if not two of the nuts. Some early 9" housings had a smooth back and look the same as a 8".
5th Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,266
From: Australia
RE: rear end identification and question
ORIGINAL: 67 evil eleanor
Look at your U joints first, what you describe is classsic symptoms for worn out U joints. One easy to tell a 8 from an 9 is this, can you get a socket on all the nuts that remove the carrier. An 8" you can anda 9" will require the use of a wrench. For one if not two of the nuts. Some early 9" housings had a smooth back and look the same as a 8".
Look at your U joints first, what you describe is classsic symptoms for worn out U joints. One easy to tell a 8 from an 9 is this, can you get a socket on all the nuts that remove the carrier. An 8" you can anda 9" will require the use of a wrench. For one if not two of the nuts. Some early 9" housings had a smooth back and look the same as a 8".
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 113
RE: rear end identification and question
ORIGINAL: 67 evil eleanor
Look at your U joints first, what you describe is classsic symptoms for worn out U joints. One easy to tell a 8 from an 9 is this, can you get a socket on all the nuts that remove the carrier. An 8" you can anda 9" will require the use of a wrench. For one if not two of the nuts. Some early 9" housings had a smooth back and look the same as a 8".
Look at your U joints first, what you describe is classsic symptoms for worn out U joints. One easy to tell a 8 from an 9 is this, can you get a socket on all the nuts that remove the carrier. An 8" you can anda 9" will require the use of a wrench. For one if not two of the nuts. Some early 9" housings had a smooth back and look the same as a 8".
I replaced the u-joints because I thought that is what it was...so I don't think that is the problem unless I messed up the install. Assuming I do have too much backlash, how would I go about adjusting it to the correct amount?