351C Rotating Assembly
Can anyone suggest a vendor and or manufacturer for a new 351 Cleveland rotating assembly? I have not decided whether to go with a stroker or standard stroke yet, so both options would be great. I have many more contacts for stroker kits than standard stroke kits so those would be most appreciated. I have read good things about Scat cranks and Ross Pistons, but there are SO many options when it comes to rod length, piston pin height, piston dome, etc. that I think I need a vendor that can put it all together for me. Thanks for the ideas.
If you stay stock stroke use the factory crank if it's for street use. Basically you want a longer rod if possible, more piston dwell will make more torque, but the big advantage is a shorter pin height piston, which is a LOT lighter. I have Scat rods and they work very well. Get something with floating pins, they can take more abuse and you don't need a rod heater to install them. I'm using Mahle pistons as well, very nice pistons, not junk but not cheap. Diamond are very good too. If you replace the crank(like a stroker etc) then try to get a lightened crank if you can, the lighter the internals are the better
So, any ideas where to buy 351C cranks, pistons, and rods?
Also, if I got with a shorter piston to reduce weight, I need a longer rod to equal out to the same stroke? Is that is how it works?
I do not plan to ever use NOS, but what do I need to look for to insure I have a bullet proof lower end (i.e. forged steel crank and rods)?
Also, if I got with a shorter piston to reduce weight, I need a longer rod to equal out to the same stroke? Is that is how it works?
I do not plan to ever use NOS, but what do I need to look for to insure I have a bullet proof lower end (i.e. forged steel crank and rods)?
Shorter pistons that weigh less need a longer rod, yes. Forged cranks aren't necessary on street applications, even for blown or nitrous setups. On a stroker you'll want forged because you're pushing the crank beyond what it was designed to do. I'd do forged pistons anyway, because they're stronger and a LOT lighter than a cast piston. And you can add boost or juice and not have to worry. Lightweight forged rods are a plus, you can have them stronger and lighter than factory units
Another question, if you buy the crank, rods, and pistons a la carte, how do you insure that the balance is 28oz? Do you need to send it to a balancer to match the pistons and rods, etc?
I see there are a few options for Scat cranks. They have a 4340 Forged crank, 4340 Forged Lightweight Pro Comp crank, and 4340 Forged Superlight crank. They also have a Billet Lightweight Pro Comp crank, Billet Superlight crank, Billet Featherlight crank, Billet QLight crank, and Billet Centerbalance Counterweight crank. Any ideas what would be the best option for weight vs. strength? So many choices.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/351C-...spagenameZWDVW
I bought a Windsor stroker kit from TMD, everything was good quality brand name stuff. (SCAT, Mahle, Keith Black)
The price ain't bad, I don't think it includes balancing. Balancing is extra $200.00, or it was $200.00 when I had mine balanced anyway.
I bought a balancer and a flywheel from them as well so they (Hawks Racing) could balance everything at one time, no guessing or worrying about mismatched parts.
If I remember, I paidless than$100.00 each for the balancer and the flywheel.
I bought a Windsor stroker kit from TMD, everything was good quality brand name stuff. (SCAT, Mahle, Keith Black)
The price ain't bad, I don't think it includes balancing. Balancing is extra $200.00, or it was $200.00 when I had mine balanced anyway.
I bought a balancer and a flywheel from them as well so they (Hawks Racing) could balance everything at one time, no guessing or worrying about mismatched parts.
If I remember, I paidless than$100.00 each for the balancer and the flywheel.
I dunno about Cleves, but the assembly will have a certain balance to it, you have to check, some may be 28, some are 0 etc. DEFINATELY get is balanced by a professional balancer, especially strokers(many will vibrate like MAD if they're not balanced). All the forged cranks are VERY strong, the weight option will come down to price. If you can afford a lightweight crank, get it, the lighter the better, but the lighter the more expensive too. That's why factory cast cranks(non stroker) are nice, they're pretty light and pretty durable
always get your rotating assembly kits balanced by a shop, not from the catalog. from the catalogs/websites they get shipped "balanced" within OEM specs which is not what we all think of when someone says their kit was balanced.
have you contacted FullAuto yet? he's a member here and sells stroker kits all day long for cheaper than everywhere else and uses quality parts (scat, srp, clevite, etc)
have you contacted FullAuto yet? he's a member here and sells stroker kits all day long for cheaper than everywhere else and uses quality parts (scat, srp, clevite, etc)


