What would you do?
Well, I was working steadily on my suspension/brakes but I hit a brickwall (figurtivley) and now I'm not sure what I should do. I wanna see what you guys think..
I need to install my differential to continue my build of the rear end, but the 9" casing is leaking (from rear welding), so I need a new one. I figure, if I am going to replace it, I might aswell not skimp it and get a nice setup. Here's the qoute..
Nic-
Here is what we can do on a complete 9" Ford Rearend for your 67 Mustang:
9" Housing/Axle Package (67 Mustang)
- Moser Axles, Big Axle Bearings, Wheel Studs, & Retainers
- 31 Spline, 5 on 4-1/2" Bolt Pattern, 1/2" Studs
Center Section (Assembled)
- New 31 Spline Trac-Lock Posi
- New Motive Performance Gears (3.50)
- New Timken USA Bearings
11" Disc Brake Kit w/ Parking Brake
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$1839 - TOTAL + 150 s/h
This would be a complete 31 spline setup with your choice of gear ratio. We use new Moser axles (not factory re-splines). We also use new trac-lock posi units, not torque-lock units (modified open carrier) like others...
This center section would be good up to 500HP. If you plan on having more than that you will want to go to an aftermarket setup. It would be $1125 instead of $820 for a complete center with the Strange Nodular Iron S-Case, Aluminum or Iron Daytona Pinion Support, 1350 Steel Yoke, Motive Performance Gears, 31 Spline Trac-Lock Posi, & Timken (USA) Bearings. ALL NEW & ASSEMBLED!
I could afford this, but it would set me back for a good while till I can save up again. My other option is to install my differential as is, and continue building around it so I can atleast get my car back on its wheels. If I go this way, Ill go ahead and buy myself those new mags/tires and perhaps swap the differential after tax season.
Car is not running nor very close to it, so original could be installed for awhile but I've also been taught the "do it right the first time" motto. But on the other hand, Idont want to drop 2k into it and not be able to work on it for awhile.Your opinions?
Nic
I need to install my differential to continue my build of the rear end, but the 9" casing is leaking (from rear welding), so I need a new one. I figure, if I am going to replace it, I might aswell not skimp it and get a nice setup. Here's the qoute..
Nic-
Here is what we can do on a complete 9" Ford Rearend for your 67 Mustang:
9" Housing/Axle Package (67 Mustang)
- Moser Axles, Big Axle Bearings, Wheel Studs, & Retainers
- 31 Spline, 5 on 4-1/2" Bolt Pattern, 1/2" Studs
Center Section (Assembled)
- New 31 Spline Trac-Lock Posi
- New Motive Performance Gears (3.50)
- New Timken USA Bearings
11" Disc Brake Kit w/ Parking Brake
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$1839 - TOTAL + 150 s/h
This would be a complete 31 spline setup with your choice of gear ratio. We use new Moser axles (not factory re-splines). We also use new trac-lock posi units, not torque-lock units (modified open carrier) like others...
This center section would be good up to 500HP. If you plan on having more than that you will want to go to an aftermarket setup. It would be $1125 instead of $820 for a complete center with the Strange Nodular Iron S-Case, Aluminum or Iron Daytona Pinion Support, 1350 Steel Yoke, Motive Performance Gears, 31 Spline Trac-Lock Posi, & Timken (USA) Bearings. ALL NEW & ASSEMBLED!
I could afford this, but it would set me back for a good while till I can save up again. My other option is to install my differential as is, and continue building around it so I can atleast get my car back on its wheels. If I go this way, Ill go ahead and buy myself those new mags/tires and perhaps swap the differential after tax season.
Car is not running nor very close to it, so original could be installed for awhile but I've also been taught the "do it right the first time" motto. But on the other hand, Idont want to drop 2k into it and not be able to work on it for awhile.Your opinions?
Nic
ORIGINAL: JMD
I think that the price with the brakes is pretty good, but,,, is it possible to have theoldcasing welded? You could save mucho $$....
I think that the price with the brakes is pretty good, but,,, is it possible to have theoldcasing welded? You could save mucho $$....
ORIGINAL: Starfury
When you do get around to it, I'd recommend a different differential. Auburn or True-Trac diffs work much better than the factory Ford Trac-Loc unit.
When you do get around to it, I'd recommend a different differential. Auburn or True-Trac diffs work much better than the factory Ford Trac-Loc unit.
ORIGINAL: baddog671
Probably, but then I would still have a weak casing, drum, 28spline, open carrier behind my 351
ORIGINAL: JMD
I think that the price with the brakes is pretty good, but,,, is it possible to have theoldcasing welded? You could save mucho $$....
I think that the price with the brakes is pretty good, but,,, is it possible to have theoldcasing welded? You could save mucho $$....
If done properly, the only person who would ever need to know about the repair would be you...
IMO, a good repair will take nothing away from thestrength of the housing,and will only take about an hour to grind and weld,+ removal and replacement time of course. + maybe $100 for the welding.... New Housing $800 - Welding $100 = $700 Savings


