Went out this morning to set timing... my car is completely not timed right.... the timing mark is off by about an inch when I point the gun at it. Probably explains why the car cranks a little too long when starting. Have heard that when people put new electronic ignitions in, this can happen. Anyways, I loosened the bolt that holds the distributor down and tried turning the dist, but this thing wouldnt budge. I proceeded to push, pull, gently tap with a hammer, but this thing still wouldn't move. What am i missing? Is there only one bolt that holds this in or this there something hidden? I'm afraid to use any more muscle than I need to. I wd40'd it and will let it sit.... any tips?

Just an aside, the engine was rebuilt 4k miles ago by PO, so I can't imagine that the distributor can get that stuck.

 

What timing gun are you using? Are you using a simply light only or are you using a light with a dial on the back?

If you are using a light only, many times timing marks are only at 0 and you need to add additional markings on the balancer for 10, 20 30 degrees ect. If you are using a light with a dial turn the dial till the mark on the balancer lines up with 0 on the pointer and then read the dial this will tell you how many degrees initial you have when performing this test at idle.

As for the dizzy not turning with bolt at the base that holds the clip and threads into the block loosened...did the PO rattle can everything as part of the rebuild? It might just be painted in place and needs a little extra umph.

 

its the kind with the dial.

no rattle can... must be gunked up. Will let WD40 do its job and then later i will muscle it...

 

Man, after various shots of WD40, more pushing and pulling and a few whacks from a hammer, it loosened up. Thought it was welded on for a bit

 

As far as the timing light, if you have an MSD(or other similar type of a different manufacture) box, be aware that most timing lights won't read correctly at less than 3k rpm with the ignition is firing over 20* or more of crank rotation, so it may show timing off by as much as 20*. If you do have one of those boxes, you'll have to set your timing by a combination of total timing(over 3k rpm) and how it drives right off idle(as far as the initial vs curved timing).

And fwiw, my MSD dizzy has an aluminum shaft, and after the engine is warmed up that thing doesn't wanna move for ANYTHING, and it takes a lot of muscle to get it to go anywhere. Cold, it's fine though.