Distributor fixed thanks for the help
ORIGINAL: mat11089
thats exactly what i was thinking.Youd be surprised how far off u can be and still be adjustable with some turn of the distributor
thats exactly what i was thinking.Youd be surprised how far off u can be and still be adjustable with some turn of the distributor
I reset everything again, made sure I was at TDC, double check the balancer to make sure my white paint TDC mark was correct. Everything matches up.
I also rechecked my pertronix and set the gap to .020 vice the .030 that is recomended. The car will not stay running with .030but will idle at .020 gap.
Now here is where I am completly stumped. The car will start and run, however when I check the timing with a standard inductive timing light it looks like I am at 40 degrees timing with the vacumm advance properly plugged. When I try and dial it back to the normal range of 6-8 for a stock motor it will die, (I have the idel scew set to a high idle).
The firing order is correct. No plugs are fouled, new wires, the cap has no cracks and the rotor is not new but is in good condition. I am pulling out my hair right now.
you should be more like 10-12 deg @ idle, something like 800 or 900 rpm to make sure the mechanical advance is not bumping your timing.
btw, i pulled a bonehead move the other day and set mine up with a 1-3 firing order (later 302's and all 351's)..... couldnt figure out why the car wouldnt run right LOL. the funny this was it actually ran though, and sounded ok once i brought it above an idle
btw, i pulled a bonehead move the other day and set mine up with a 1-3 firing order (later 302's and all 351's)..... couldnt figure out why the car wouldnt run right LOL. the funny this was it actually ran though, and sounded ok once i brought it above an idle

I am pulling my hair out right now.
Here is some quick info.
New wires, good rotor, no cracks in the cap, firing order is correct.
I rechecked my pertronix and with the gap set to .030 the car will not stay running but with .020 the car will stay running.
When I checked the timing with a standard inductive timing light it would seem that I am at 40 degrees or more advance at idle with the vacumm advance plugged. I am well past the TDC, 3,6,9,12 marks on the balancer. When I try and dial the timing back to 6-8 fora stock motor the car will die, it runs like crap.
I have no idea what to do right now. I am very confused.
Here is some quick info.
New wires, good rotor, no cracks in the cap, firing order is correct.
I rechecked my pertronix and with the gap set to .030 the car will not stay running but with .020 the car will stay running.
When I checked the timing with a standard inductive timing light it would seem that I am at 40 degrees or more advance at idle with the vacumm advance plugged. I am well past the TDC, 3,6,9,12 marks on the balancer. When I try and dial the timing back to 6-8 fora stock motor the car will die, it runs like crap.
I have no idea what to do right now. I am very confused.
ORIGINAL: my77stang
get it to idle @ 10 or 12, and hook the vacuum advance back up. it will probably idle things up a bit for you and smooth everything out.
get it to idle @ 10 or 12, and hook the vacuum advance back up. it will probably idle things up a bit for you and smooth everything out.
Did you by chance remove the DISTRIBUTOR to put in the pertronix module?? If so, did you bypass the resistance wire going to the coil and the coil itself?? You need to do thatso the coil and Pertronix gets a full 12 volts. When you do that you then need a coil that can take the full 12V all the time.
ORIGINAL: 109jb
Did you by chance remove the DISTRIBUTOR to put in the pertronix module?? If so, did you bypass the resistance wire going to the coil and the coil itself?? You need to do thatso the coil and Pertronix gets a full 12 volts. When you do that you then need a coil that can take the full 12V all the time.
Did you by chance remove the DISTRIBUTOR to put in the pertronix module?? If so, did you bypass the resistance wire going to the coil and the coil itself?? You need to do thatso the coil and Pertronix gets a full 12 volts. When you do that you then need a coil that can take the full 12V all the time.
ORIGINAL: syfhler
I replaced my dizzy the other day and I am having problems with getting it started.
I replaced my dizzy the other day and I am having problems with getting it started.
ORIGINAL: syfhler
I used my same coil as my last distributor. I did not haveany problems driving the car before I just did not like thecar set to Total Advance all the time.
ORIGINAL: 109jb
Did you by chance remove the DISTRIBUTOR to put in the pertronix module?? If so, did you bypass the resistance wire going to the coil and the coil itself?? You need to do thatso the coil and Pertronix gets a full 12 volts. When you do that you then need a coil that can take the full 12V all the time.
Did you by chance remove the DISTRIBUTOR to put in the pertronix module?? If so, did you bypass the resistance wire going to the coil and the coil itself?? You need to do thatso the coil and Pertronix gets a full 12 volts. When you do that you then need a coil that can take the full 12V all the time.
ORIGINAL: 109jb
If you had points in before and went to the pertronix, then the pertronix module is not getting 12 volts. You never said if you went from points to pertronix, or whatever. We need to know what is different about your old distributor and the new one.
ORIGINAL: syfhler
I used my same coil as my last distributor. I did not haveany problems driving the car before I just did not like thecar set to Total Advance all the time.
ORIGINAL: 109jb
Did you by chance remove the DISTRIBUTOR to put in the pertronix module?? If so, did you bypass the resistance wire going to the coil and the coil itself?? You need to do thatso the coil and Pertronix gets a full 12 volts. When you do that you then need a coil that can take the full 12V all the time.
Did you by chance remove the DISTRIBUTOR to put in the pertronix module?? If so, did you bypass the resistance wire going to the coil and the coil itself?? You need to do thatso the coil and Pertronix gets a full 12 volts. When you do that you then need a coil that can take the full 12V all the time.


