Traction bars....
... again...
I need help. I need good traction bars, not slappers but the other kind that pivot. We've discussed this before and I saved the thread, but it was on my old laptop.
I'm putting about 400hp/500lbs of torque to the rear wheels and they just bounce around everywhere when I dump the clutch. I have about $300 to spend on them, maybe a little more if I need to.
Any ideas?
I need help. I need good traction bars, not slappers but the other kind that pivot. We've discussed this before and I saved the thread, but it was on my old laptop.
I'm putting about 400hp/500lbs of torque to the rear wheels and they just bounce around everywhere when I dump the clutch. I have about $300 to spend on them, maybe a little more if I need to.
Any ideas?
Traction Masters. They're the original type put on the 65-66 GT350's and they work well, but do require welding. Should be able to get a hold of a set for about $100. I know Glazier's sells them, not sure who else.
The Slide-A-Links that you posted the link to are pretty much the best of the bolt in traction devices. They're like Cal-tracs but are adjustable for preload, pinion angle etc. They have a bunch of parts, but aren't really all that difficult, they bolt right on. The rear part replaces the shock mount plate, and connects to the front part with the telescoping arm, the front part attaches to the telescoping arm, pivots in the front spring eye, and has a peice that goes across the top of the leaf so that when the axle wraps and pushes the arm forward, the front peice pivots around the spring eye and pushes DOWN on the leaf, which is similar to how the Cal-tracs work. The difference with the Slide-A-Links is that the telescoping arm has some adjustments and bushings on it so that you can dial in the pinion angle and traction bar preload. They're the most expensive, but the best available....you get what you pay for.
One thing to consider too, is that all the traction device in the world won't help if you have weak springs, which is my problem. The springs are so old and weak that even with dialed in traction bars the springs still try to oscillate too much and I can get wheel hop if I try to launch too hard. That's really only on the track though where the surface is prepped with traction adding substances and the suspension gets loaded more.
If I had the money I'd go with the Slide-A-Links for the adjustability, being able to set pinion angle is cruicial to avoiding wheel hop. The Slide-A-Links can adjust both pinion angle and traction preload with a few turns of some hand tools, you don't even have to jack the car up. That's why they cost so much.
One thing to consider too, is that all the traction device in the world won't help if you have weak springs, which is my problem. The springs are so old and weak that even with dialed in traction bars the springs still try to oscillate too much and I can get wheel hop if I try to launch too hard. That's really only on the track though where the surface is prepped with traction adding substances and the suspension gets loaded more.
If I had the money I'd go with the Slide-A-Links for the adjustability, being able to set pinion angle is cruicial to avoiding wheel hop. The Slide-A-Links can adjust both pinion angle and traction preload with a few turns of some hand tools, you don't even have to jack the car up. That's why they cost so much.


