Found out what screwed my engine!
http://www.lucasoil.com/images/media...stabilizer.pdf
A link to the spec sheet of the assembly lube I used. It speaks of use as assembly lube on the second page.
If I remove the cam and lifters, coat them in the cam lube and use something like this http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...3&loc=show during startup should I be ok.
A link to the spec sheet of the assembly lube I used. It speaks of use as assembly lube on the second page.
If I remove the cam and lifters, coat them in the cam lube and use something like this http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...3&loc=show during startup should I be ok.
ORIGINAL: PReal
http://www.lucasoil.com/images/media...stabilizer.pdf
A link to the spec sheet of the assembly lube I used. It speaks of use as assembly lube on the second page.
If I remove the cam and lifters, coat them in the cam lube and use something like this http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...3&loc=show during startup should I be ok.
http://www.lucasoil.com/images/media...stabilizer.pdf
A link to the spec sheet of the assembly lube I used. It speaks of use as assembly lube on the second page.
If I remove the cam and lifters, coat them in the cam lube and use something like this http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...3&loc=show during startup should I be ok.
I'm far happier with the item in the second link. Apparently it has a strong enough EP package to cover for current oils, though I would not try "cheating" the concentration on the low side at least in the beginning.
Norm
I wouldnt blame Edelbrock just yet.If you look at other forums there are a ration of cams going flat,probably due to oil and its properties.I ran a RPM Edelbrock cam for about 8 years, never had a problem and Comp the same. I have installed a few cams and never had a problem till last year.My custom solid cam went flat in about 20 minutes.My buddies the same.I now went with a roller 244*/.599 lift to avoid the break in process.
ORIGINAL: tyler72
Ok, so the oil seems to be a hot topic. I used pennzoil 10w40 in it when I first started it. I urned the engine over with the starter until I had good oil pressure before I started the engine. Yes, I had coated EVERYTHING very GENEROUSLY with the supplied lube and revved it up to 2000+ rpm for the first 15-20 minutes of it running. I then drove it 5 or so miles before the rockers started rattling. I stopped, pulled the valve covers and re-adjusted the valves and then drove a little more when the pump went out. This tells me that thhe cam went first because why else would the rockers become loose? it was because the cam lobes were getting shorter. Nobody can blame mismatched parts either because I bought the whole setup as a kit directly from jegs. Everything was edelbrock (heads, cam, pushrods, intake, timing chain,... everything). I have heard that rotella 15w-40 is the best thing to break in a cam with, like mentioned above, so I guess I'll go that route next time around. Oh, I did call comp cams today and they recommended PN: CL31-250-4 which has a 284/296 advertised duration and a .541/.544 lift. It is the same one that I have been looking a getting. The tech guy said that it should sound really mean, so I guess thats what Im gonna get!
Ok, so the oil seems to be a hot topic. I used pennzoil 10w40 in it when I first started it. I urned the engine over with the starter until I had good oil pressure before I started the engine. Yes, I had coated EVERYTHING very GENEROUSLY with the supplied lube and revved it up to 2000+ rpm for the first 15-20 minutes of it running. I then drove it 5 or so miles before the rockers started rattling. I stopped, pulled the valve covers and re-adjusted the valves and then drove a little more when the pump went out. This tells me that thhe cam went first because why else would the rockers become loose? it was because the cam lobes were getting shorter. Nobody can blame mismatched parts either because I bought the whole setup as a kit directly from jegs. Everything was edelbrock (heads, cam, pushrods, intake, timing chain,... everything). I have heard that rotella 15w-40 is the best thing to break in a cam with, like mentioned above, so I guess I'll go that route next time around. Oh, I did call comp cams today and they recommended PN: CL31-250-4 which has a 284/296 advertised duration and a .541/.544 lift. It is the same one that I have been looking a getting. The tech guy said that it should sound really mean, so I guess thats what Im gonna get!
That's what destroyed it right there. Plain old Penz 10-40 is worthless for a cam break-in unless it specifically has the EP additive package, and I'm not aware of any Penzoil having it. Also, USING THE STARTER TO PRIME THE OILING SYSTEM IS A FATAL ENGINE ERROR. At least for flat tappet cams. Priming the pump by cranking the engine with the starter pretty much garuntees flat tappet cam destruction inside of 30 minutes. You cranked the engine slowly so you had 0 oil pressure, but the lifter was riding the cam lobe with spring pressure pushing on it. You wiped your cam lobes before the engine was ever started. That's why the pump is supposed to be primed by hand/drill.
what he said. for the record i AM a pennzoil person, but during flat tappet break-in i use rotella and prime first.
hell, my 289 has the old cam and lifters from my 302..... thats REALLY pushing the limits on what will work and what wont. i primed the pump before starting, and used rotella 15w40 doing 1500 rpms for 15 minutes and so far i have had no problems from it.
now, all that aside............. every once in a while a bad stick goes out the door from all of the cam grinders out there, i wouldnt be surprized if edelbrock had comp or crane grinding their cams anyways.
*edit* just a thought for a cam selection, i've been eyeballing these new "Z" series cams from crane
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft
they are supposed to incorporate some newer technology for quicker valve openings and more overall power. plus
it seems to have a pretty good power range without going too crazy on the lift or spring pressures
hell, my 289 has the old cam and lifters from my 302..... thats REALLY pushing the limits on what will work and what wont. i primed the pump before starting, and used rotella 15w40 doing 1500 rpms for 15 minutes and so far i have had no problems from it.
now, all that aside............. every once in a while a bad stick goes out the door from all of the cam grinders out there, i wouldnt be surprized if edelbrock had comp or crane grinding their cams anyways.
*edit* just a thought for a cam selection, i've been eyeballing these new "Z" series cams from crane
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft
they are supposed to incorporate some newer technology for quicker valve openings and more overall power. plus
it seems to have a pretty good power range without going too crazy on the lift or spring pressures
Well, all I have to say, is that I am a mechanic for a living, and I have been doing it all of my life. I have always used just regular oil and mostly have primed the engine with the starter. I have never had a flat tappet cam fail except for ths one. I do agree that Rotella is a good break in oil, but like I said, I haent had any trouble unitl this one, so I guess its time to change my ways. My next cam is a comp CL31-250-4, so its going to be broken in with Rotella, and the engine will be primed with a drill before I start it up. I cant afford to have to build this engine again. I need it to work right this time. I still feel like the cam was bad though, just because of the severity of the damage. You would just have to see it. But it doesnt look like it was hardened at all.
This site has useful information.
http://www.camcraftcams.com/failure.htm
Sorry to hear about your engine troubles. But sounds like version 2 will be even better............[sm=groupwave.gif]
Jav
http://www.camcraftcams.com/failure.htm
Sorry to hear about your engine troubles. But sounds like version 2 will be even better............[sm=groupwave.gif]
Jav
ORIGINAL: tyler72
Well, all I have to say, is that I am a mechanic for a living, and I have been doing it all of my life. I have always used just regular oil and mostly have primed the engine with the starter. I have never had a flat tappet cam fail except for ths one. I do agree that Rotella is a good break in oil, but like I said, I haent had any trouble unitl this one, so I guess its time to change my ways. My next cam is a comp CL31-250-4, so its going to be broken in with Rotella, and the engine will be primed with a drill before I start it up. I cant afford to have to build this engine again. I need it to work right this time. I still feel like the cam was bad though, just because of the severity of the damage. You would just have to see it. But it doesnt look like it was hardened at all.
Well, all I have to say, is that I am a mechanic for a living, and I have been doing it all of my life. I have always used just regular oil and mostly have primed the engine with the starter. I have never had a flat tappet cam fail except for ths one. I do agree that Rotella is a good break in oil, but like I said, I haent had any trouble unitl this one, so I guess its time to change my ways. My next cam is a comp CL31-250-4, so its going to be broken in with Rotella, and the engine will be primed with a drill before I start it up. I cant afford to have to build this engine again. I need it to work right this time. I still feel like the cam was bad though, just because of the severity of the damage. You would just have to see it. But it doesnt look like it was hardened at all.


