As I indicated previously you can measure lift at the rocker and get a rough idea of the type of cam but it takes some pretty detailed measurements best done with some specialty tools I don't own so its not something I have done. However, single springs, hydro lifters, and a dual plane indicate to me you have a close to stock rebuild that if you are lucky would have a tiny bit larger than stock cam.

 

I would have to research exactly how to do it, but I think you can figure out the raw cam specs with a degree wheel and a dial caliper............

 

I apologise if you think my posts were irresponsible Texas.
I answered 2 of your 4 questions the same as other posters. i didnt respond to the ones I didnt know the answers to.

YOU said you wanted 325+ in your first post. Then you said you dont care about the hp. Now you're still saying you might want to change the cam. To achieve what intended purpose?

thats right, you didnt say they were stock. But they are 40some year old cast iron 289 heads on a 302. Yes it is possible to get 350hp out of stock heads. But someone more responsible than me might also suggest that no one in their right mind will chase 350hp out of heavy cast iron heads with single springs and press in studs when you can buy aluminum AFRs (or choose your brand) right out of the box that will do thejob betterand wont break leading to catastrophic engine failure.

I stand by my posts and I doubt anyone else here who has made the same mistakes I did (doing pretty much what you intimated in your first post)would disagree. All I was trying to do was discourage you from throwing good money after something that I believe would end in tears. But...whatever...its your money. I'll keep my opinions to myself[8D]

 

So, I guess the answer is that there is no part no. or other identifying markings on cams. It seems from my Chevy days that they did, but I could be mistaken on that. That's what I needed to know, not necessarily what I wanted to hear, but it helps.

I'm a long way from first firing of the engine, just wanted to know if what I have is going to suit my purpose, as stated in the original post.

 

For what is worth....the 65 coupe put down 180 at the back tire with a slightly warmer than stock rebuild on mildly ported heads and single springs....and the darn thing is still my favorite of all of them to drive out on the highway. (the fact that it's the only one with a 4 speed might have something to do with it) but it keeps up with the run of the mill 3 series just fine

 

No they have stamps unless it is a custom grind and then the stamp would be worthless. Usually though they're on the other end you'ld have to pull it out and I figured you didn't want to do that.

(at least all the stock cams I've pulled out of my cleveland had 'em)

 

Thanks dodgestang, that is exactly the answer I was looking for, I just didn't tear in far enough I guess.

Aussie66Fastback, I'm sorry if I came off sounding like a horse's ***, I'm sometimes prone to do that.

 

Well...lets hope you don't prove me a liar
FWIW they were comp cams I pulled.

 

no offence taken norintended this end either Texas
I hope you find its suitable for what you want
good luck

 

Some manufacturers put grind numbers for cams on them, but you'd have to pull the cam out to see it since it'd most likely be on the back side. Getting and honest 350hp out of stock 289 iron heads and having it streetable is asking a lot. As far as whether your engine is streetable, if you want to know the cam specs there are ways. You'd need a dial indicator with a magnetic mount base, bring the engine to TDC on a cylinder and set the dial indicator on one of the rocker ends(so you're taking either cam lift or valve lift measurements). Then put a degree wheel on the crank snout and 0 it. Just like you're degreeing a cam then slowly turn the engine over backwards until the valve seats(check the intake on the top of the exhaust stroke this way). Back it up a little ways after the valve has seated then go forward(to take up any timing chain slack). When the lifter comes up about .006" take a reading from the degree wheel, then take another at .050" then take the reading at max lift, then another at .050 and another at around .006 on the closing side of the cam. You then have your 5 main points for the intake(or exhaust if you do it), IVO, IVC, EVO, EVC and max lift. From that you can determine duration and duration at .050". It also gives you your intake/exhaust centerline. That'll give you an idea of the range the cam is designed for.

And BTW, with hydraulic lifters you want to at least prime the oiling system to pump the lifters up, but if you want to get accurate then you'd need light springs such as for claying pistons, or no springs at all.