valve adjustment
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 242
valve adjustment
damn i am asking a lot of questions
so next one valves.
i read here that since my 289 is a C code i can just torque the rocker arm lock nut to 20 ft/lbs and call it a day.
is that with the lifter all the way up or all the way down or does it matter
i also read the part about twisting the pushrod while tightening the nut and then 3/4 turn past snug. is that with the lifter up or down
(i saw the term circle base but i dont know what the term circle base means)
so next one valves.
i read here that since my 289 is a C code i can just torque the rocker arm lock nut to 20 ft/lbs and call it a day.
is that with the lifter all the way up or all the way down or does it matter
i also read the part about twisting the pushrod while tightening the nut and then 3/4 turn past snug. is that with the lifter up or down
(i saw the term circle base but i dont know what the term circle base means)
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,035
From: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
RE: valve adjustment
I'd highly suggest you getthe Shop Manual which should give you the specs your asking. Also the book "How to rebuild Small-Block Ford Engines" which details the 221, 255, 260, 289, 289HP, 302, boss302 and the 351 engines.
That said I cant answer myself as my books are at the shop. Perhaps one of the guys who have rebuilt a few will answer later this evening for you.
That said I cant answer myself as my books are at the shop. Perhaps one of the guys who have rebuilt a few will answer later this evening for you.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,946
From: Colorado
RE: valve adjustment
You can do it running, loosen the nut until it clatters, tighten it back until it stops clattering thengo 3/4 past and you are done. This way can be very messy, oil every where. The other method is to pull both valve covers and rotate the engine until it is on TDC. Both valves on #1 should be closed if not rotate the crank one full turn back to TDC and both valves will be closed on #1 now. Adjust both valves by backing off the nut until the pushrod is loose. tighten each nut until there is no lash and go 3/4 of a turn past. Rotate the crank 1/4 turn clockwise and adjust the next cylinder in the firing order until they are all done.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 242
RE: valve adjustment
yeah i already have the shop manual but this is deeper in the engine than i ever have been and the shop manual is a little bit vague in some places and i am just now beginning to learn the workings of the internals of the engine.
i keep seeing this link
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html
i have a question about a few of the steps
step 2
it says to turn the motor until the exhaust valve starts up.
please verify if i understand this right.
this means that the exhaust lifter begins to move up from completely seated and the intake lifter is all the way down right?
then tighten the intake rocker
then step 7
turn the motor until the intake is almost down.
this means that you have to turn it until the intake lifter goes all the way up and then almost completly seats right?
then tighten the exhaust cover.
i should have enough time off from work to tackle this next week so I am just trying to make sure i dont go in blind
i keep seeing this link
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html
i have a question about a few of the steps
step 2
it says to turn the motor until the exhaust valve starts up.
please verify if i understand this right.
this means that the exhaust lifter begins to move up from completely seated and the intake lifter is all the way down right?
then tighten the intake rocker
then step 7
turn the motor until the intake is almost down.
this means that you have to turn it until the intake lifter goes all the way up and then almost completly seats right?
then tighten the exhaust cover.
i should have enough time off from work to tackle this next week so I am just trying to make sure i dont go in blind
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
RE: valve adjustment
First off, you need to figure out if you have and adjustable valvetrain or if you've got positive stop (torque and go) studs. If the lower stud diameter is bigger than the threaded portion, it's positive stop and all you have to do is torque them down to factory spec.
I believe most C codes do not have positive stop studs, but I could be wrong, so check first.
If you've got an adjustable valvetrain, here's what you do:
1) Disconnect the coil wire and jump the starter solenoid (B+ terminal to small adjacent terminal) with a screwdriveruntil bothvalves for the #1 cylinder are seated. It's pretty easy to tell as the engine turns over
2) Loosen both adjusting nuts until you have play in the pushrod, then tighten the nuts just until all VERTICAL play in the pushrods is gone (not until they stop spinning, as some people may tell you).
3) Tighten each nut another 1/2 to 3/4 more.
4) Repeat for cylinders 2-8
This method gets it done faster than the 'one valve at a time' method, and it's worked every time for me.
I believe most C codes do not have positive stop studs, but I could be wrong, so check first.
If you've got an adjustable valvetrain, here's what you do:
1) Disconnect the coil wire and jump the starter solenoid (B+ terminal to small adjacent terminal) with a screwdriveruntil bothvalves for the #1 cylinder are seated. It's pretty easy to tell as the engine turns over
2) Loosen both adjusting nuts until you have play in the pushrod, then tighten the nuts just until all VERTICAL play in the pushrods is gone (not until they stop spinning, as some people may tell you).
3) Tighten each nut another 1/2 to 3/4 more.
4) Repeat for cylinders 2-8
This method gets it done faster than the 'one valve at a time' method, and it's worked every time for me.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 242
RE: valve adjustment
ORIGINAL: Starfury
First off, you need to figure out if you have and adjustable valvetrain or if you've got positive stop (torque and go) studs. If the lower stud diameter is bigger than the threaded portion, it's positive stop and all you have to do is torque them down to factory spec.
I believe most C codes do not have positive stop studs, but I could be wrong, so check first.
If you've got an adjustable valvetrain, here's what you do:
1) Disconnect the coil wire and jump the starter solenoid (B+ terminal to small adjacent terminal) with a screwdriveruntil bothvalves for the #1 cylinder are seated. It's pretty easy to tell as the engine turns over
2) Loosen both adjusting nuts until you have play in the pushrod, then tighten the nuts just until all VERTICAL play in the pushrods is gone (not until they stop spinning, as some people may tell you).
3) Tighten each nut another 1/2 to 3/4 more.
4) Repeat for cylinders 2-8
This method gets it done faster than the 'one valve at a time' method, and it's worked every time for me.
First off, you need to figure out if you have and adjustable valvetrain or if you've got positive stop (torque and go) studs. If the lower stud diameter is bigger than the threaded portion, it's positive stop and all you have to do is torque them down to factory spec.
I believe most C codes do not have positive stop studs, but I could be wrong, so check first.
If you've got an adjustable valvetrain, here's what you do:
1) Disconnect the coil wire and jump the starter solenoid (B+ terminal to small adjacent terminal) with a screwdriveruntil bothvalves for the #1 cylinder are seated. It's pretty easy to tell as the engine turns over
2) Loosen both adjusting nuts until you have play in the pushrod, then tighten the nuts just until all VERTICAL play in the pushrods is gone (not until they stop spinning, as some people may tell you).
3) Tighten each nut another 1/2 to 3/4 more.
4) Repeat for cylinders 2-8
This method gets it done faster than the 'one valve at a time' method, and it's worked every time for me.
both lifters down
tighten until pushrods have no verticle play
turn 1/2 more
sounds easy
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 186
From:
RE: valve adjustment
In my rebuild book there is a 3 step process where you can get all of them in 3 steps. First, you find TDC (67t5ponycoupe outlines how to get to TDC quite nicely), then with both valve covers off you can get several cylinders at once, just not both intake and exhaust. Step 2, I believe is rotate 180deg and then you get more, then do another 90deg and you finish them all up. To do each it says to tighten til the pushrods won't turn and then do 3/4 turn and lock'em down.
Been working for me so far. If anyone wants more detail I'll go and get the book out of the garage and outline which valves for each rotation.
Been working for me so far. If anyone wants more detail I'll go and get the book out of the garage and outline which valves for each rotation.
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