im stuck. need help..again
well i got the ball joints off and i have a brand new 70 coupe front end in my closet... everything i need for the most part. I am having trouble getting the brake line nut off and stripped it pretty bad... on the passenger side. I have new soft lines from the drum to the fender well i guess. Any ideas how to get that nut off the steel line? What options do I have even if i get it off as to how to get another nut over that flared end of the brake line? Should i just purchase new steel lines for the front? I really want to stay away from brake lines other then the two front soft lines I have... Any way i can drilll it off or should i just go cry to my neighbor like i did on the driver side? haha.
Cry to the neighbor. Sorry, there is no way to get a new nut over a flared end unless you splice the line with a flareless fitting, but that's a bit dangerous (and probably illegal) for brake lines.
Those nuts strip down pretty easy if you're not using a line wrench. Liquid wrench and vise grips might get if off. If it's too worn down for you not to want to reuse it, I'd just leave the nut and cut the end of the steel line. Chances are your old steel linemight need tobe replaced anyways. Considering you probably don't have a dual master cylinder, you don't want to leave the brake lines to chance by putting a new nut on the end and re-flaring what's remaining.Replacement lines are readily available or you could buy the proper length of pre-flared generic line and bend it to match the old one. For sharp corners you need a tube bending tool, but most of the time you can bend it with your hands. If you get a flaring tool make sure it does double flares on steel tube and get enough steel tube to practice on. Brake lines aren't hard to replace, just make sure you torque the nuts up good and tight. I've had a few leak on me.
Those nuts strip down pretty easy if you're not using a line wrench. Liquid wrench and vise grips might get if off. If it's too worn down for you not to want to reuse it, I'd just leave the nut and cut the end of the steel line. Chances are your old steel linemight need tobe replaced anyways. Considering you probably don't have a dual master cylinder, you don't want to leave the brake lines to chance by putting a new nut on the end and re-flaring what's remaining.Replacement lines are readily available or you could buy the proper length of pre-flared generic line and bend it to match the old one. For sharp corners you need a tube bending tool, but most of the time you can bend it with your hands. If you get a flaring tool make sure it does double flares on steel tube and get enough steel tube to practice on. Brake lines aren't hard to replace, just make sure you torque the nuts up good and tight. I've had a few leak on me.
If you are talking about where the line transitions from steel line to the flexible hose, there is usually an intermediate fitting that is held in place by a medium sized "U clip". This fitting should give you two places to get things apart. If the hose connection wont come off, then thehard line fittingmay come loose. This "clip in intermediatefitting" is readily available and should be easy to replace should the need arise.
If the nut you are talking about is the one that attachés the hard line to the intermediate fitting, then your options are limited. Vice grips may get it loose, but maybe not. These lines can get really, really stuck. If this is the case, you will probably need to replace the whole line back to the distribution block. (if it will come loose here!)
Tubing wrenches will help when dealing with brake lines but they wont work miracles, and once the flanks of a fittingare strippedoff.... well....[:@]
If the nut you are talking about is the one that attachés the hard line to the intermediate fitting, then your options are limited. Vice grips may get it loose, but maybe not. These lines can get really, really stuck. If this is the case, you will probably need to replace the whole line back to the distribution block. (if it will come loose here!)
Tubing wrenches will help when dealing with brake lines but they wont work miracles, and once the flanks of a fittingare strippedoff.... well....[:@]
Well my neighbor came down to help. We decided to cut the line in two places. The first was where i stripped it obviously. The second place I cut was on the inside of the engine bay about a foot inside from the wheel well. There is a connection there to connect two of the steel lines. I called a speedshop that I always go to and im going to pick up the steel line. I am going to buy a few feet extra just in case I cant get it out from there. If I cant then I will just follow it along to the master cylinder. Everything is now off of the car. The driver side already has the new upper, lower control arms. Also has the new soft brake line, complete inner and outer tie rods. I should almost have it complete tomorrow afternoon after class. I am gonna have pics tomorrow. Thanks for the help. IF I should arise another problem with the brakes I will just come on here and cry some more. Im excited to almosthave my first complete project done on my first restoration...still many more tho...
Wel , not that anyone seems to care lol. I have all the stuff hooked back up and its all brand new and pretty! All I have left to do now is get the shocks and springs in... This is what I believe would be the hardest part. I have to acquire a different coil spring compressor because these springs are a lot thicker and the other one wont fit. Should I purchase my rims now when I get it aligned or just spend the money on getting the old tires balanced and wait? opinions?
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