Are you pulling my leg about the alignment? Is it different for you guys?

Interesting explaination of the sway bar reaction. At what point did you feel the tire geting pulled/loosing traction?

I am going to putthe rear sway baron and see what happens since I have it. I will keep an eye out for what you are talking about. I do not do any road course running or slalom courses. Good performance street handling would be great for me. If it helps great, if not then I will just take it off.

 

Here's a good thread on alignment specs - https://mustangforums.com/m_941996/tm.htm

Tim

 

You didn't say the year of your car so here are the specs either way

Please align to these specs “1960-1966 Mustang and Falcon Performance Alignment with Shelby drop�.

These specifications are in order of importance.

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.

3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.

4. 1/16" to 1/8� toe in

If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).


Please align to these specs “1967-1970 Mustang, Falcon & Cougar Performance Alignment with Shelby drop�.

These specifications are in order of importance.

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.

3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.

4. 1/16" to 1/8� toe in

If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).

 

Fantastic. Are the alignment specs different for non-Shelby drop cars? Mine is a 1969 fastback with power steering.

 

urb we drive on the other side of the road and our roads often have a fair sort of crown on themas well asdrivers weight on the outside of the road.

the specs arent that different you've just got to have the left wheel slightly forward of the right to counter this.

good luck with the sway...i think if your rear springs are not too stiff it will work ok.

as far as when i felt it, it was before i experienced any understeer...so going quick in medium tight bends as i got back on the gas. dont worry, just build up gradually on a section of road you know well and push the slower corners first. If its an issue you'll know soon enough.

 

aussie, i will have no respect for you unless you post pics. JK, but we need pics!!!!!

 

ok ok...there's nothing to see yet but new shocks arrived and I will be doing the spring mods in the next coupla weeks. i promise i will get some pics for round 2

 

That's a good explanation Ben.
Along with laterally locating the rearend,a Panhard bar affects rear roll center and can hold the car fairly flat, while still providing a forgiving platform. Which means a sway bar isn't needed. However, get the bar too high, and the rear will snap like a whip.
As unsprung and sprung weight goes up, there comes a point when a sway bar is needed even with a Panhard bar.

 

hey Scott thanks

can you explain the difference between sprung and unsprung weight a little more.
How can you adjust roll center with a panhard bar...i thought it was pretty much a case of lowering the body down relative to the fixed position of the diff and the only effective way is to use blocks or take curvature out (flatten) the rear springs????

man i stillhave a lot to learn particularly about the mostly neglected backside of my car

 

Here's a link to AFCo'san article on Panhard bars. It has pictures and does a better job than I would at writing an explanation.
Note: they are talking about circle track cars, but the general principles still apply to cars that can do more than just turn left
http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/panhard.shtml

Sprung weight is all the weight supported by the springs. Unsprung weight is, the springs, and all thecompenents that act on the springs (wheels, tires, brakes, axle, etc). So on our Mustangs, if we jacked up the car, and removed the front and rear leaf spring eye bolts, everything attached to the springs is "unsprung weight", everything attached to the car is sprung weight.
On the front end it would be the springs, shocks, UCAs, LCAs, spindles, brakes, wheels and tires.