Which is the proper way to lower the rear ride height on a mustang? Lowering blocks or "mid-eye" springs? I need new springs and don't want it to look like a stinkbug with its tail in the air when I bolt them in. This is not a hot rod by the way, just a '66 convertible with a V8 that is a cruiser, not a quarter mile machine.

Stock springs are sagging which makes it look lowered, but once you put people in it, especially in the back seat, it sags something fierce.



[IMG]local://upfiles/16727/B2D42F7B93BB4A6AB0CFF44BDFBF8FAF.jpg[/IMG]

 

in an ideal world you would do it with the springs but lowering blocks are ok.

the cheapies are supposedly prone to splitting but i doubt that would be an issue on a cruiser.

 

the correct way is definitely a new spring. lowering blocks are widely used but aren't really safe. the bolts tend to stretch(the longer a bolt is easier it will break and stretch) and the u bolts will loosen and cause you to need to constantly check them for looseness.

but another + for the new spring is that it is a worn 40yr old component

 

If you need new springs anyway, order the mid-eye springs and use lowering blocks to fine tune your ride height. You can get lowering blocks in 1/4", 1/2",& 1", also you can stack the 1/4" & 1/2" blocks if you want to lower your rear by 3/4".

Southwest Speed sells billet blocks - http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=v...sssub=Standard

Tim

 

I think your car is sitting at the perfect level right now, looks good!

Definitly get new springs for it and the related items, and if you'd like it alittle lower, put some small blocks on it...

 

While I agree that the springs would be the preferrable way to get your ride height correct, I don't buy that lowering blocks are unsafe at all. I don't think there will be any effect on the u-bolts at all. I drove lifted trucks for years, with blocks of 2-4" in back with absolutely no issues, and I punish a lifted truck. Doesn't matter if the blocks are used for lifting (as with trucks) or lowering, still the same thing.

All that said, I'd get new springs and then tweak the ride height with blocks if necessary.

 

The current springs look good in their "naturally lowered" state right now, until you put anyone in the rear seat and the rear wheels disappear.

Well I did some research and found that new springs raise will raise the rear roughly 2 1/2" to 3". So I ordered the mid-eye springs which should return to close to within the current ride height, or maybe 1 1/2" higher, and hold weight!!!

Sounds like cracking lowering blocks is a problem that I can solve by making my own lowering blocks and cutting them to get the correct pinion angle on the differential. It's a piece of cake for me since my step-brother runs a flow-jet at a local shop and if I can sketch it, he can have it cut out of billet in any material in no time. Now that's family!!

Anyone need custom sized/cusom angled billet lowering blocks???

 

I agree that you definitely need new springs andlowering blocks if it is a bit too high.... I am a firm believer in the back being higher than the front, in the picture the rear looks lower than the front to me... I could be wrong though. My springs were worn on my car and I started having more problems then just sagging a bit.... the back would hit the wheels not great.