timing?
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 366
From: California
timing?
ok so this a very broad ?, but what is timing, and how do you adjust the timing on ur engine and dizzy. im just about to that wonderful point when i can ATTEMPT to start my engine. and i keep seeing on her ? relating to timing and where the engine needs to be set to and all this other stuff. so basically what do i need to do before i can attempt to start her up. can some one help me out or give me a good link so i can read up on this... the last thing i need to do is try and start it up and some thing go wrong.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 366
From: California
RE: timing?
i was reading an article her about a timing pointer that is on the block? i guess that might be a good start for me since i dont think my engine has one. so where do i begin to set up my engine as far the timing goes. is there a certain position the engine needs to be in befor you can fire it? and if so how do i get it there
1st Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 109
RE: timing?
Make sure the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. #1 piston up and both valves closed (comp stroke) then make sure the rotor button is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire. Now your and in basic time, But you need to have a pointer to make sure your engine is properly timed with a timing light when you get it running.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
RE: timing?
You need the engine timed for it to run properly, or at all.
Timing is the relation between the moment when the spark plug fires and the position of the piston in the combustion chamber. It's measured in degrees in relation to Top Dead Center (TDC). For example, your engine probably needs to be timed to fire at 8-14* Before TDC (BTDC) at idle, depending on the cam you're using. If it fires before that point, you can run into detonation issues, which is when the air/fuel mixture instantaneously combusts rather than burning normally. If it fires after that point, you end up with fuel still being burned as the piston travels farther down the cylinder, wasting energy and causing overheating issues. This is the basic version as you still have to deal with variable advance timing, but I'll ignore that for now.
What you need to do is find your timing pointer. If you don't have one cast into the timing cover, you'll need to buy one. Once you've got it installed you'll need to find TDC for cylinder #1. Remove all of the spark plugs. Rotate the engine by hand using a large breaker bar and 15/16" socket on the front crank bolt with your thumb over the spark plug hole for cylinder #1. When you feel some pressure on your thumb, you know you're on the compression stroke. Look at the timing marks on the balancer and keep turning until the 8* mark lines up with the timing pointer. Reinstall the plugs and drop the distributor in, making sure the rotor lines up with the #1 cylinder terminal on the cap. This will at least get you in the right range.
When you're ready to fire the engine, loosen the distributor retaining nut just enough to be able to twist the distributor with mild effort. As you're cranking the engine over, have a friend up front turning the distributor back and forth slightly (only a couple degrees)until the engine fires. Turn the distributor until the engine runs smoothly while you're breaking in the cam and tighten down the retaining nut. When you're done with the cam break-in, you can set the proper timing at idle with a timing gun.
Timing is the relation between the moment when the spark plug fires and the position of the piston in the combustion chamber. It's measured in degrees in relation to Top Dead Center (TDC). For example, your engine probably needs to be timed to fire at 8-14* Before TDC (BTDC) at idle, depending on the cam you're using. If it fires before that point, you can run into detonation issues, which is when the air/fuel mixture instantaneously combusts rather than burning normally. If it fires after that point, you end up with fuel still being burned as the piston travels farther down the cylinder, wasting energy and causing overheating issues. This is the basic version as you still have to deal with variable advance timing, but I'll ignore that for now.
What you need to do is find your timing pointer. If you don't have one cast into the timing cover, you'll need to buy one. Once you've got it installed you'll need to find TDC for cylinder #1. Remove all of the spark plugs. Rotate the engine by hand using a large breaker bar and 15/16" socket on the front crank bolt with your thumb over the spark plug hole for cylinder #1. When you feel some pressure on your thumb, you know you're on the compression stroke. Look at the timing marks on the balancer and keep turning until the 8* mark lines up with the timing pointer. Reinstall the plugs and drop the distributor in, making sure the rotor lines up with the #1 cylinder terminal on the cap. This will at least get you in the right range.
When you're ready to fire the engine, loosen the distributor retaining nut just enough to be able to twist the distributor with mild effort. As you're cranking the engine over, have a friend up front turning the distributor back and forth slightly (only a couple degrees)until the engine fires. Turn the distributor until the engine runs smoothly while you're breaking in the cam and tighten down the retaining nut. When you're done with the cam break-in, you can set the proper timing at idle with a timing gun.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,018
From: SE Minnesota & SW WI & Bloomington, IL
RE: timing?
My brother and I just readjusted my timing yesterday. He thought we shouldnt be moving the distributor while the engine was running, so we didn't. But for some reason I thought you could. Is it ok to adjust the timing while the engine is running?
6th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,468
From: California
RE: timing?
Yes, you can turn the dizzy while the engine is running. I'd only do it if you use radio supression wires though(which you should anyway). Solid core wires can arc though the insulation and electrocute the crap out of your hand/arm/shoulder. It hurts.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
RE: timing?
There is no way to accurately set the timing without the engine running (not easily, anyway), so yes, it's ok to turn the distributor with the engine running. All street wires are RFI suppressed. The FCC doesn't like people driving around interfering with radio waves, heh. Solid-core wires are labeled 'not for use on street-legal vehicles,' or something like that.
So...why are you running solid-core wires on a street car? lol:P
So...why are you running solid-core wires on a street car? lol:P