One of my header bolts was being stubborn while installing my new set... Well in the process of trying to get it out so I could rethread it I stripped the damn thing. I have tried using vice grips and a brake line wrench; I figured if I could grab it from more sides I could get it out. NO DICE.

Not sure what else to try. I know they make those drill bits that you place in a small drilled out hole and the it grabs. however, I dont know if I hae enough room to fit a drill in between the shock tower and the header.

 

ouch.. That sucks.. I know thta craftman has what looks like a socket that instead of having walls on the inside for turning the bolt head there is a reverse bit that bites in to the bolt head and turns it, but there has to be a little bit of head there to bite into.. the set is only about $12 at sears.. That would fit in the space given.. or your going to have to drill/tap it out.

 

Also you can get a 90 degree drill or a 90 degree adapter for a standard drill.

This may give you the room you need.

I have seen an addapter at Lowes just a few days ago.

 

If the head is just rounded, maybe a slightly smaller socket (metric maybe) or craftsman makes socket just for that purpose.

 

The two things I did when I had this problem a few years ago was get a small pipe wrench,not a monkey wrench ..a small PIPE wrench.Then I heated the bolt up with a propane torch.It Came right out.Now I was lucky and it was the one on the very front and was easy to get to .If you can't get to it with a pipe wrench try heating it up and using the vice grips again.You would be suprised what a little heat can do.
Hope this helps
Jeff

 

If it gets really desperate, there are a couple of rather extreme methods if you have access to a MIG welder.

You could try welding a nut onto the bolt head or bolt stub (probably have to put the weld bead inside the hole in the nut).

Or you could cut the header flange on both sides of the bolt so you can at least get the header out of the way and give you a little more room for other options, such as trying to spin the little piece of flange that's still bolted down by using a hammer and chisel and letting the friction between the underside of the bolt head and the flange piece then turn the bolt a little.

If it's the header that you're replacing, and if it is in fact headed for the trash bin you wouldn't even have to worry about welding the flange back up and getting the head-side surface flat enough to seal.


Norm

 

well the problem with using a one of the craftman sockets you guys were talking about is that the bolt is on one of the middle tubes so it is pretty tight; I dont know If a socket will fit on it.

 

Weld another nut as suggested. The additional heat from welding will help break it free.
Don't be shy with the heat. Just do not melt the sides of the nut. If this happens you could be back in the same boat. This is a very common practice I promote. Been in the welding supply business for near 30 years. It works. And cheaper than Sears.

 

Well, then you could either cut the head off and remove the header then it will come out with your fingers, or you could try a hammer and sharp chisel.

 

No matter what path you take it is going to suck.

If you can get a die grinder in well enough to grind the head of the bolt off this may be an option. Of course this will leave you with the shank of the bolt still screwed into the head, but chances are it will probably not be stuck once the head is off, and you will have better access to weld a nut in place if it is still tight.