Tomorrow I plan to change my drum brake shoes (already have the parts) as well as the brake cylinders in the rear. Any tips or advice for it? My dad has done it a million times but I haven't done it at all, so ultimately I can go to him. It seems simple enough, heck if I can pull an engine and put the rest of the car together I think I can do it

The main thing I need advice on is adjusting them after the shoes are installed. What's the steps to do this?


Also I'm going to change the power steering "slave cylinder" (the hydraulic rod thingy) since it is leaking, anyone done this before? any tips?

Thanks!

 

For the brakes, I'd clamp off the rubber line with a pair of vise grips..not tight enough to crush it but just enough to close it off. That will minimize bleeding when you're done. Pay attention to the shoes as they are different. Long shoe to the rear and short one to the front. I like to lay the springs on the ground to keep track of where they came off and do one side at a time. That way, if you forget, it'll give you a reference. (you will have the other side to look at) Pay attention to which way you have to turn the star to make the shoes go outward. You could even stick a screwdriver though the slot and try it before you put the drum back on. I like to adjust them out to where I can get the drum on without excessive dragging for a start, then when you get the drums on, adjust them in until you can't turn the wheel. After that back them off like 10-12 turns. They should spin free there and when you back up they will finish the adjust on their own. If you have other questions, I'm sure someone here can help.
As for the steering....can't help you there. Sorry.

 

You've already got a great response on the front brakes portion of your question and I have nothing further to add except "brake parts cleaner". Buy a couple spray cans and don't be afraid to use it. New brake parts are usually coated with a corrosion prevention compound that should be removed before use. Unless you're installing new drums, you shouldn't have to cleanyour new shoes/springs, but the cleaner will help cut through the years of grime that have accumulatedon the rest of your brake system.

For the PS Ram Cylinder, the replacement is pretty straightforward. The two fluid lines will need to be disconnected.... they'llleak all of your fluid so be prepared for a puddle of fluid. The fixed end on the frame rail will need to be disconnected. Ifturning the jam nut causes the rod to spin, use a pair of vice grips on the very end of the rod to keep the rod from spinning. Nows probably a good time to replace the ram cylinders bushings. The ball stud end of the ram cylinder is a pressed fit into the centerlink. This is similar to an upper/lower ball joint. It'll usually take some force to seperate the ball stud from the centerlink. Back the nut 1/2 way off and give the end of the ball stud a couple sharp hammer blows should do it.... or use a pickle fork if you have one.

After you've replaced the ram cylinder and have everything re-connected, add PS fluid and with theengine running turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times to work any air out of the system.

That should be about it.

Have fun!
Dave

 

Thanks for the great responces stepman and dave, I only have drums in the rear so it shouldn't be too hard at all. My disks up front are still good.

As for the PS ram cylinder, I have a whole new unit, so I think the bearings will already be perfect. Thanks for the tip on the turning back and forth to get the air out, didn't even think of that!

 

For the star adjusters, to make sure they are on the right side, remove the cap on the end where it somes off and it should have a D or P (may be R or L, can't remember). They have to be on the correct side.

I usually adjust them loose and let the auto adjustment do it's job. To do this, get going in reverse and hit the brakes, do this several times. Depending on your exhaust, you may hear some clicking like a ratchet sound. When you can't hear this anymore, the brakes should be adjusted.

 

One thing to check while you have the shoes off of the backing plate. There are 6 "bumps"on each sidethat the shoes ride on that hold them a little away from the backing plate. Make sure that none of them have a grove worn into them from the previous sets of shoes. This can cause the brake to drag and click when going on and off the brakes. You can take a grinding stone and a Dremmel and smooth things out and then put a little brake lube there to keep them moving smoothly.

This is a fairly common problem.

 

You're darn tootin' it is. I forgot all about mentioning it, but more often than not there is a groove worn into the bumps on the backing plate that should be fixed as you mentioned.

Dave

 

okay so if those bumps do have grooves on them, just grind it down until its flat with the backing plate? or until it is just a smooth hump in general?

 

Just a thought... you may want to have your dad watch you or look it over or something before you put it all back together. Not to discount your ability, but brakes are kinda a big deal... so if I were you I wouldnt take any risks.

good luck

 

Lol yeah I know they're a big deal, but I know I can do it, I built the rest of my car myself. I'm going to go start now I think he'll be home eventually