Buyer's guide?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 187
RE: Buyer's guide?
Not sure about any post's but I have a 66 and I definately reccomend checking the frame rails, cowl, and floor pan's. This has been alot of work for me and would have been alot more fun if these areas were in good shape from the start.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 585
From: Baltimore MD
RE: Buyer's guide?
Skim over the posts here and you will find hundreds of situations. Most of which you will probaly run into at some point.
Rust is a huge problem and can be hard to see or hidden by people wo don't know what they are doing or are trying to rip you off.
Decide what you want out of the car and how much time, money, patience and experence you have. Do you want a daily driver, a project, a race car, or a show car? Coupe (least expensive), convertable (more $$) a fast back (more $$) or something rare (still more $$).
I am the third owner of my car. Original owner sold to a friend of my Dads, he sold it to my Dad, he gave it to me. Mine has been garage kept and has less than 75,000 original miles. Because it sat for long periods a lot of the seals rotted. $2,000 later I have a rebuilt tranny due to a $1.00 seal blowing and a replaced main seal due to a $2.00 seal rotting. I have rust in the floor pan, trunk, quarters, and door bottoms. This much rust and the car has been garage kept.
Luckily these older cars have a simpiler electrical system than new ones. This is being said by a guy who can't keep his gauges working after trying to fix them for over a year.
I read a post the other day where a guy said he stopped keeping track after hehad $30,000 invested in his 67. How muchdo you want to invest and how much can you afford.
Decide what you want, shop around, if you don't know a lot about cars pay to have a car inspected before you buy it.
Rust is a huge problem and can be hard to see or hidden by people wo don't know what they are doing or are trying to rip you off.
Decide what you want out of the car and how much time, money, patience and experence you have. Do you want a daily driver, a project, a race car, or a show car? Coupe (least expensive), convertable (more $$) a fast back (more $$) or something rare (still more $$).
I am the third owner of my car. Original owner sold to a friend of my Dads, he sold it to my Dad, he gave it to me. Mine has been garage kept and has less than 75,000 original miles. Because it sat for long periods a lot of the seals rotted. $2,000 later I have a rebuilt tranny due to a $1.00 seal blowing and a replaced main seal due to a $2.00 seal rotting. I have rust in the floor pan, trunk, quarters, and door bottoms. This much rust and the car has been garage kept.
Luckily these older cars have a simpiler electrical system than new ones. This is being said by a guy who can't keep his gauges working after trying to fix them for over a year.
I read a post the other day where a guy said he stopped keeping track after hehad $30,000 invested in his 67. How muchdo you want to invest and how much can you afford.
Decide what you want, shop around, if you don't know a lot about cars pay to have a car inspected before you buy it.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,417
From: Cork, Ireland
RE: Buyer's guide?
as what is posted above: cowl is a big one. drop a 10 litre bucket into the vent behind the bonnet (hood?).
if it comes out on the inside of the car, then the cowl is rotted. common problem. don't go too quick with the pooring, as you'll flood a good cowl doing that as well
if it comes out on the inside of the car, then the cowl is rotted. common problem. don't go too quick with the pooring, as you'll flood a good cowl doing that as well
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