Try talking to cprstreetmachines hes turbo a couple mustangs.

 

www.cprstreetmachines.com

Dustin and Richard have done this quite a few times.. Check them out..

 

I am AMAZED at all the wrong information being given

You DONT need a blower box, just a bonnet.

Flipped headers dont work in all allpications

You WILL need a bigger fuel system capable of higher pressure under boost as well as sustaining the flow and not bleeding down.

 

ok,
lemme save you some pain. the 302 will hold 500rwhp. we all know that, grab you up some .60trim turbo coupe turbos from a junkyard since this is for a twin setup, and rebuild them. those are sized almost perfectly for this application. if your staying carb'd shoot for a 680/750 Dp blow through, the rear mount style turbo your talking about is an STS "style". more piping, but just as effective. dont fall for the air to water is a better intercooler trap. it'll cost you an extra couple hundred dollars.

despite what most people say you can make power cheap and reliably. it's all about looking at what you want to do and know exactly what you need to get there.

 

I'll throw my hat in here.[8D] Lemme know the HP target, and maybe I can help there. As you know the time until positive pressure will be different on it, the father back you mount. I think the biggest things you'll notice is the lack of room for the actual tubing. You can run normal exhaust back, and run it into a turbo and then out probably fairly easy. But running your cold side tubing and an inlet for the turbo will be a little harder.

You will need a return for the turbo oil. The psi needed is vey little. It may even help you being that far back. Sometimes the standard oil PSI is a bit much for turbo and seeps past the seal.
Flipping shortys just don't work in a 65-66

Aussie, I know the company you are talking about and thier kit has to be one of the worst designed kits I have seen.

The other potential problem I see is the heat created, especially under boost by the turbos, and can you keep it from cooking whatever is nearby. Then there is just the noise.... Which I love ALOT. But I don't know if I could handle it in the cab of the car. On dynos when you see turbo cars going at it, all you hear for the most part it the turbo. Louder than the motor. Imagine that in your car.

Even if it's carbed, like Mario said, you will need an EFI fuel system. Which from scratch is about 15-1700 bucks if done correctly. And a blo thru carb
can be made and tuned by you if your know carbs, or one can be had by a company and they can get them dad nuts, or extrememly close if you choose the right company. Please PM me before you buy a carb so I can steer ya in the right direction. Don't wanna pay 900 bucks just to spend 5+hrs on the dyno trying to un-F it

If I remember, it's for the wifey ? Get 2.75's or 3.00's and the biggest MT drag radials you get get under the car. I don't know her driving habits, but it is very easy to get a rear end to come around on a light car and that much power. especially in 1st and 2nd gear.

Don't wanna discourage ya, but that's what I can think of off the top of my head. Otehr than that turbos are a blast.


USMC, you should fall for that air to water trap, they ARE much better.

 

edited

 

She said she wants something that will be noticed. That should do it. For this light of a car, I think around the 450-500 is more than enough. The compartments will be sealed airtight form the inside withplate(for CO) and well insulated for noise and heat.I havean idea on how to run thecold sideto keep a clean look.As far as the fuel system, what are some proven designs?

 

Nono, haha. Sorry. STS isn't the bad stuff. The kit I believe you were talkinga bout. The one I was thinking about was the company that places the in the scoop on the newer cars like he is talking about.

Mario can explain his, should be enough and probably cheaper than what we generally run. But his was the first one I have seen to run without a return and have not problems. But we'll have to wait and see once we get a clutch in there that holds the power.
I didn't see, but you may look at a King cobra, or maybe the upgraded version. You would need to convert to 10.5 flywheel, but they are diaphram style, so she wouldn't have to push a whole lot harder.
Ours are a 8an feed and return. You can do a 6an in into the carb. An A1000 aero pump and Mallory 4309 boost referenced regulator. Some guys like the aero reg's, but are more $ and I haven't had any problem at my HP level with it. She should be fine. A return will also help with pump noise and longevity also.After sumping AN lines,clamps and all the fittings it gets expensive quick. The fittings will kill you.

 

Any other options than the A 1000? Those are very loud. Maybe something in the tank?

 

I'll break down my fuel system for you(disregard the carb,I took it in the a$$ on that one)

Product Engineering 360GPH pump/relay kit- $580
-10 line to carb/fittings- $200
new tank w/ sump-$ 200
Paxton boost referenced regulator(already had)- $170??
powder coated carb(do not buy from PC Carb)-$ 880

probably misc. stuff too

The pump has a built in bypass that doesnt require a return,saves money on line and fittings