Buying 68 Coupe: HELP!
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10
Buying 68 Coupe: HELP!
I'm currently watching a 68 stang coupe, that I would like for my new project/restomod. I've never modified a car this old. And I need your expertise in what to look for when buying this car, where to look for rust, what Do I have to watch out with this car, etc.
I would also like to see some pics of 67-68 restomod coupes, what i can only find are fastbacks. I love the look of the cougar taillamps in the fastback(Gt500), Do they look as good in the coupe?
Would like to see pics of a Coupe with the chrome trim painted, like "eleanor". To see if its as attractive as a fastback.
Thank You in advance,
Darvin Diaz
I would also like to see some pics of 67-68 restomod coupes, what i can only find are fastbacks. I love the look of the cougar taillamps in the fastback(Gt500), Do they look as good in the coupe?
Would like to see pics of a Coupe with the chrome trim painted, like "eleanor". To see if its as attractive as a fastback.
Thank You in advance,
Darvin Diaz
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,990
From: San Diego, CA
RE: Buying 68 Coupe: HELP!
Looks like a pretty nice car, just check for rust and make sure that engine swap was done right. And if it used to be a 6 cyl before that swap be sure it has been changed over to 5 lug, i.e. new rear end and front suspension.
It looks solid though
It looks solid though
2nd Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 278
From: Orlando, Flawda
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10
RE: Buying 68 Coupe: HELP!
I think it was a V6, it still is 4 lug and about suspension I just emailed the guy.
Is there anything wrong about it being 4 lug, is it hard/expensive to find the parts to make it 5 lug?
What about the suspension? How much $$$
Where Do I have to look for most rust?
Is there anything wrong about it being 4 lug, is it hard/expensive to find the parts to make it 5 lug?
What about the suspension? How much $$$
Where Do I have to look for most rust?
ORIGINAL: 4reboy
ORIGINAL: darvo
Here are some pics of the car.... There are selling it in $5,900! It has a 85 5.0 HO with 3 speed stock transmision.
Here are some pics of the car.... There are selling it in $5,900! It has a 85 5.0 HO with 3 speed stock transmision.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 250
From: Albuquerque, NM
RE: Buying 68 Coupe: HELP!
I'm at work, so I can't see the pics.
I would avoid a conversion to a V-8, it means more money in the long run.
Here's what I looked for when I bought my last two 68 coupes.
Rust: First and foremost look at the floor, lift the carpet and look carefully at the toe rest, and the pan, you will not see rust from the outside, unless it's holed.
Using a flashlight, see if you can peer up underneath the dash, especially behind the glovebox and just to the left of the steering wheel. Again, look for deep colored rust. This is the back of the cowling. Be aware the Air Box may be in the way (black box behind the glovebox).
The cowling is time consuming and expensive to fix.
Under the hood, look carefully at the shock towers for cracks or welding and holes on the sides (people used to crudely cut holes to get to the front arm grease zerts), then on the passenger side look very closely at the area below the battery box. This is not hard to repair, but you would have to know how to weld.
Trunk. Look at the two pits right behind the wheel wells. These accumulate rust because they usually are deep in trash from the trunk. Also lift the trunk mat to look at the area around the gas tank and wheel wells. Carefully examine the wheel wells where they meet the fenders.
Body. The area where the roof meets the rear quarter is prone to cracking. Look right near the back of the side rear window for cracks. Look at the outside of all four wheel wells. An inch spot of rust bubbles usually means you will be cutting about a square foot of rust.
Roof. If it has or had a vinyl top, carefully examine the roof. The worst spot is the top above the windsheild.
This is all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck.
I would avoid a conversion to a V-8, it means more money in the long run.
Here's what I looked for when I bought my last two 68 coupes.
Rust: First and foremost look at the floor, lift the carpet and look carefully at the toe rest, and the pan, you will not see rust from the outside, unless it's holed.
Using a flashlight, see if you can peer up underneath the dash, especially behind the glovebox and just to the left of the steering wheel. Again, look for deep colored rust. This is the back of the cowling. Be aware the Air Box may be in the way (black box behind the glovebox).
The cowling is time consuming and expensive to fix.
Under the hood, look carefully at the shock towers for cracks or welding and holes on the sides (people used to crudely cut holes to get to the front arm grease zerts), then on the passenger side look very closely at the area below the battery box. This is not hard to repair, but you would have to know how to weld.
Trunk. Look at the two pits right behind the wheel wells. These accumulate rust because they usually are deep in trash from the trunk. Also lift the trunk mat to look at the area around the gas tank and wheel wells. Carefully examine the wheel wells where they meet the fenders.
Body. The area where the roof meets the rear quarter is prone to cracking. Look right near the back of the side rear window for cracks. Look at the outside of all four wheel wells. An inch spot of rust bubbles usually means you will be cutting about a square foot of rust.
Roof. If it has or had a vinyl top, carefully examine the roof. The worst spot is the top above the windsheild.
This is all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck.
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45
From: Minnesota
RE: Buying 68 Coupe: HELP!
I'm about 1 year into a restoration of a 68 coupe with an in-line 6 cylinder engine, 200 C.I.D. From your pictures, I can see that it has the original four lug wheels, just like mine. All six cylinder versions in 1968 came with the four lug design and an 'integral' differential. The car you're looking at must have the original in-line 6 cylinder engine in it.
The tradeoff, here, is that you will find fewer parts options than you will for a V-8 and fewer wheel styles too. I know that Classic Inlines is often mentioned as an alternative for engine parts for those who want to try to make a performance 6 cylinder engine, but they are about the only commercial option in the U.S.that I'm aware of for the I6. For V-8s, on the other hand, there is lots of competitition and many aftermarket parts suppliers.
If you want to upgrade to a V-8, bring your checkbook and start with the suspension. I found an 8-inch rear end in a salvage yard for $200, and this one came with axles that have 5 lugs. To do the same upgrade in the front, you'll need new spindles and I believe at least one new outer tie rod end. Other things that are necessary: new radiator, motor mounts, fuel line, new bell housing if you're keeping your C-4, and several other things I haven't gotten into yet. Once upon a time, I found a web site that had something like 35 things that needed to be changed to go from an I6 to a V8 in a Mustang.
If I were to do this all over again, I'd look for a 67 or 68 with a V-8 that someone hasn't yet worked on that has a body in good shape, that can be driven.
The tradeoff, here, is that you will find fewer parts options than you will for a V-8 and fewer wheel styles too. I know that Classic Inlines is often mentioned as an alternative for engine parts for those who want to try to make a performance 6 cylinder engine, but they are about the only commercial option in the U.S.that I'm aware of for the I6. For V-8s, on the other hand, there is lots of competitition and many aftermarket parts suppliers.
If you want to upgrade to a V-8, bring your checkbook and start with the suspension. I found an 8-inch rear end in a salvage yard for $200, and this one came with axles that have 5 lugs. To do the same upgrade in the front, you'll need new spindles and I believe at least one new outer tie rod end. Other things that are necessary: new radiator, motor mounts, fuel line, new bell housing if you're keeping your C-4, and several other things I haven't gotten into yet. Once upon a time, I found a web site that had something like 35 things that needed to be changed to go from an I6 to a V8 in a Mustang.
If I were to do this all over again, I'd look for a 67 or 68 with a V-8 that someone hasn't yet worked on that has a body in good shape, that can be driven.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10
RE: Buying 68 Coupe: HELP!
They guy told me it is a regular 289, it has been always a V8.
Did the V8 also came with 4 lugs?
He changed the 289 to a 1985 302. its a 3speed MT.It has a 1985 302 stang rear end.
I'm going to see it in "person" on saturday. I'm going to need as much info as possible with these cars.
Thank You all for you knowledge,
Darvin Diaz
Did the V8 also came with 4 lugs?
He changed the 289 to a 1985 302. its a 3speed MT.It has a 1985 302 stang rear end.
I'm going to see it in "person" on saturday. I'm going to need as much info as possible with these cars.
Thank You all for you knowledge,
Darvin Diaz
ORIGINAL: Jaded
I'm at work, so I can't see the pics.
I would avoid a conversion to a V-8, it means more money in the long run.
Here's what I looked for when I bought my last two 68 coupes.
Rust: First and foremost look at the floor, lift the carpet and look carefully at the toe rest, and the pan, you will not see rust from the outside, unless it's holed.
Using a flashlight, see if you can peer up underneath the dash, especially behind the glovebox and just to the left of the steering wheel. Again, look for deep colored rust. This is the back of the cowling. Be aware the Air Box may be in the way (black box behind the glovebox).
The cowling is time consuming and expensive to fix.
Under the hood, look carefully at the shock towers for cracks or welding and holes on the sides (people used to crudely cut holes to get to the front arm grease zerts), then on the passenger side look very closely at the area below the battery box. This is not hard to repair, but you would have to know how to weld.
Trunk. Look at the two pits right behind the wheel wells. These accumulate rust because they usually are deep in trash from the trunk. Also lift the trunk mat to look at the area around the gas tank and wheel wells. Carefully examine the wheel wells where they meet the fenders.
Body. The area where the roof meets the rear quarter is prone to cracking. Look right near the back of the side rear window for cracks. Look at the outside of all four wheel wells. An inch spot of rust bubbles usually means you will be cutting about a square foot of rust.
Roof. If it has or had a vinyl top, carefully examine the roof. The worst spot is the top above the windsheild.
This is all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck.
I'm at work, so I can't see the pics.
I would avoid a conversion to a V-8, it means more money in the long run.
Here's what I looked for when I bought my last two 68 coupes.
Rust: First and foremost look at the floor, lift the carpet and look carefully at the toe rest, and the pan, you will not see rust from the outside, unless it's holed.
Using a flashlight, see if you can peer up underneath the dash, especially behind the glovebox and just to the left of the steering wheel. Again, look for deep colored rust. This is the back of the cowling. Be aware the Air Box may be in the way (black box behind the glovebox).
The cowling is time consuming and expensive to fix.
Under the hood, look carefully at the shock towers for cracks or welding and holes on the sides (people used to crudely cut holes to get to the front arm grease zerts), then on the passenger side look very closely at the area below the battery box. This is not hard to repair, but you would have to know how to weld.
Trunk. Look at the two pits right behind the wheel wells. These accumulate rust because they usually are deep in trash from the trunk. Also lift the trunk mat to look at the area around the gas tank and wheel wells. Carefully examine the wheel wells where they meet the fenders.
Body. The area where the roof meets the rear quarter is prone to cracking. Look right near the back of the side rear window for cracks. Look at the outside of all four wheel wells. An inch spot of rust bubbles usually means you will be cutting about a square foot of rust.
Roof. If it has or had a vinyl top, carefully examine the roof. The worst spot is the top above the windsheild.
This is all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck.