I am getting ready to start my 20 minute break in on my new 289 that someone else built. I started it up andone of the rockers sounded loose. I pulled the cover and found that to be the case. How do you adjust the rockers on this motor? Do you do it whilerunning?

Thanks, Jeff

 

I would just bring each cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and then adjust. With that cylinder at TDC, spin the pushrod between your fingers while turning the adjusting nut. You will feel zero lash. From there, turn in about 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. That ought to do it. I've done adjustments with the engine running years ago, but it's too messy and I haven't had any problems doing it like I just described.

 

I like to do similar. I turn the motor over until the opposite valve you want to adjust is at max lift. This will ensure the other is close completely and give you the correct adjustment. Flat tappets I've noticed need a little more preload. I usually do half a turn. It wasn't enough the other day. Ended up with 3/4 of a turn.

 

...you didn't let it idle, did you? DO NOT LET THE MOTOR IDLE until you've completed the 20min break in period. If you notice any problems, shut the motor off, fix the problem, and then continue the break in procedure.

Before break in, the valvetrain needs to be adjusted with the engine off. Rather than doing it one valve at a time, I do one cylinder at a time. There's quite a bit of time where both valves are closed during the compression stroke.

Here's how I do it:
Remove the coil wire and use a screwdriver to short the B+ terminal on the starter relay to the adjascent small terminal to turn the engine over. Start with cylinder #1.Crank until you see the intake valve close (the exhaust will have opened and closed already). Adjust both valves on that cylinder until there is zero vertical play in the pushrod, then tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn more. Repeat for the remaining 8 cylinders. This method keeps me from forgetting which valves I have and haven't done, and makes things go a lot faster.

 

1/2 turn has always worked for me

 

Men, not to hijack but how do you account for preload with no oil in the hyd lifters?

(or do you fill'em before install?)

 

Don't do anything. As far as I am concerned it is a myth that the lifter need to be pumped up with oil and a pushrod before install. As a matter of fact crane and comp cams both state this is not necessary or desired. A brand new lifter will have the plunger at the top seating against the retaining ring when you get it. That is the point of zero pre-load and if you take the lash out to there then the addition 1/2 turn of the nut is the preload.

 

It's more difficult. But if they are new, do it before the intake goes back on. Run it down until you BARELY see the plunger move in the lifter. That's 0, then turn from there.

 

Hey thanks for the instruction everyone. I did the adjustments while off and then started it up and went straight to 2000 RPM for 25 minutes. Everything looks to be great! No leaks, no overheating! I will probably take the covers off and check them all again.

I can't get it to start by the key though. I think it must be the neutral safety switch.

Jeff

 

+1

The only exception I'd note to this is for Rhoads lifters, where Rhoads recommends a single pump with the lifter submerged in oil. This helpsremove most of theair in the lifter which could cause excess bleed-down with their lifter design.