My 66 Fastback is stock height with 16" torque thrusts and i wamt to lower it down to eat up over an 1" between the wheel well in front and over 2" in back. ive been given 2 choices so far. i dont want the 620 coils because way too stiff. cut the stock springs and put lowering blocks in the back or there is a shop 3 miles away that will relocate the A arms in front and put new reverse leafs in the back which they say will feel way better than the cut coils and lowering blocks. any input would be great.

 

Ideally, you'd replace the fronts with 1" drop springs. Glazier's will sell you some that achieve the proper 1" drop with the factory GT spring rate.

I'd recommend mid-eye or reverse-eye leaf springs for the rear. Like the shop said, they will feel much better than lower blocks. Blocks tend to cause lots of spring wrap.

 

+1 to Tad's comments, also cutting your existing springs tends to produce a harsher ride (much like the 620's that you're trying to avoid).

Lowering blocks in the rear and cut coils up front is kids stuff. Kids stuff in that if all you have is $20 and want to lower the car, it'll work, but itsurely isn't the best way of doing it.

Dave

 

For the front, I personally would relocate the upper control arm and see what that does. It improves handling which is worth it just for that, but will also lower the front a bit. If it does't do enough, I would then cut the stock coils a bit and get the stance you are looking for. It will increase the spring rate, but not up to the 620 lb/in coils. Besides, if you don't like the ride after cutting, you can still buy new coil springs which is where you were in the first place anyway.

As for the rear, mid-eye or reverse eye are the way to go. Lowering blocks can get the look you want, but as was mentioned will come at a price. I wouldn't put more than 1" lowering blocks, and none if you can help it. I'm going to go with 4-1/2 leaf springs. Haven't decided fully on reverse or mid-eye yet though. I'll put the car back together with the springs I have and go from there. Make sure that your current leafs are not mounted with extended length shackles at the rear attach. Back in my high school days (1979-1983), it was cool to have the raked look with the back end raised. My current Mustang had shackles that were 5-1/2" bolt center to bolt center to raise the back of the car. Stock is 3-1/2". Check this before you go ordering new springs.

 

What size are your tires? Don't get carried away with lowering or you will suffer driveability issues. Go with choice #2. If you're mechanically inclined do it yourself. You'd save money and be rewarded with a sense of accomplishment. Buy the template Daze sells, it makes doing the UCA drop foolproof.

 

Along with a bunch of other neat things, the back pages of the T.Branda catalog has the UCA template. It's paper, not a metal template, but I've used it successfully many times.

Relocating the UCA, on average, drops the front suspension only about 1/4". Aside from the slight drop, the suspension benefits from increased articulation and better camber angles.

Dave

 

I must have a weird car. I have heard the UCA relocation only drops 1/4 to 1/2. My car dropped 1" with it. It is really worth it.

 

BA was your drop in conjunction with your lower profile tires?
have you had your wheel alignment corrected yet?

 

Yes. I had the original 14s did the drop and then got my 16s with low profiles. They have not been aligned yet. It drives fine without the correction.

 

+1 to Dave and Tad. Blocks and cut coils [sm=smiley21.gif][sm=badidea.gif] Springs really don't cost that much. Do it right and do it once.