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rear tailight panel

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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 09:24 PM
  #1  
ky's Avatar
ky
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Default rear tailight panel

so i stripped my car and found that i had between 1/4" - 1/2" thick of bondo aling the WHOLE tailight panel on my car. we were just gonna sand off the cracked parts and refill with some kitty hair. but i changed my mind and am gonna replace the whole rear panel instead. its only $65 for the panel and changing panels is nothing for me anymore.

that way i dont have to worry about there always being bondo on there anymore, plus it will give me a nice new line along the bottom to line up with the bumper.

who else has changed this peice? im guessing its not that hard, im just gonna weld a peice of angle on the trunk rails to keep the quater panels from moving.




and a bonus picture of what my car looks like right now . i really like the beige primer, i think im gonna leave it primered and get it back running before i final paint it. what do you think? i just want to get it back on the road after like 8 months of sitting torn apart [&o].



Old Jul 15, 2008 | 09:37 PM
  #2  
Tony R's Avatar
Tony R
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Default RE: rear tailight panel

mine is in as bad a shape as yours. I was going to replace it but since I am fabbing my own custom lights I will leave it and if I dont like the lights I make I will replace the panel. Looks good. I think you should finish it before you drive it. Thats just me though.
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 09:37 PM
  #3  
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67BullittCoupe
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Default RE: rear tailight panel

PRIMER FTW

eh, just leave it in primer and buy a crap load of rattle can clear and cover the whole car. twice

i got anew valence panel i sprayed it white and used rattle can clear just to make it match until i get the car painted.

it came out very nice!
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 09:37 PM
  #4  
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Daze
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Default RE: rear tailight panel

don't you know bondo is not to be thicker than a nickel... turned up on its side

That piece is not to bad to replace. The only problem with the aftermarket part is they are flat, and the original one had a subtle arc to it
Old Jul 15, 2008 | 10:43 PM
  #5  
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ky
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Default RE: rear tailight panel

yeah but its a very hard piece to judge once its on the car. the corners stick out past the panel so theres no flat line to look down. im pretty sure a new one with no curve is still WAY better than what was there[&:]

i have about 2500 saved up for a motorcycle but im gonna ditch that idea and use it on my car for a tranny, underdash wiring, and carb and dizzy to finish my motor. then i can get it running.

and im gonna leave it primer when i stab the motor and tranny cause i LOVE the beige color with my rims. i think i just like the new color cause its way different from the red/pink faded, cracked, orange peeled paint that was there.
Old Jul 16, 2008 | 01:28 AM
  #6  
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photocliff
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Default RE: rear tailight panel

Be sure to remove the gas tank before you start cutting or welding in that area. And cover the end of the hose too!
Old Jul 16, 2008 | 01:49 AM
  #7  
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rmodel65
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Default RE: rear tailight panel

remember 2k primer absorbs water, so keep that in mind if you plan on leaving it lie that for any length of time at a min. id epoxy prime it.
Old Jul 16, 2008 | 11:00 AM
  #8  
ky's Avatar
ky
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From: ca
Default RE: rear tailight panel

the primer for now is just to keep it from surface rustinganymore . we have all of our primer and mixers and featherfill stuff, we'll shoot a coat of that on once i finish the bondo work.


ORIGINAL: photocliff

Be sure to remove the gas tank before you start cutting or welding in that area. And cover the end of the hose too!
dont worry, theres no gas tank. just like theres nothing else on the car
Old Jul 16, 2008 | 12:00 PM
  #9  
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rst08tierney
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Default RE: rear tailight panel

I would leave it and repair the bondo job if everything looked stright before you got in there to fix it. The re pop is very cheap in every way possible no to mention flat!

******Its VERYhard to line it up since it has no bend.*********
Old Jul 16, 2008 | 12:06 PM
  #10  
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rst08tierney
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Default RE: rear tailight panel

If your going to leave the primer, make sure to pain at least the engine bay before you start putting it back together. It will save you some head aches down the road! trust me



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