Its a 67

I have yet to replace my end links on my front and rear sway bars that the P/O installed. The rubber looks like its seen better days.

1.) Brands? Do's, Don'ts would help. Im looking at the set NPD has for $12.50pr made of graphite and impregnated poly. What are the exact sizes of the rods for the front and rear? The front rods look much longer then the rear for some reason.

2.) I cant undo the end link bolts for the front end for the life of me. I used all the old tricks etc. Can I just use a set of bolt cutters to end my misery?

3.) Anything special I need to do for the rear other then tackle 4 more bolts?

I know this is a super easy fix but as usual, my last super easy fix turned into a HUGE ordeal. All the held and advice would be great.


[:@]***P.S. THE REASON IM ASKING IS THE WIFE WANTS TO HELP**** [:@]

( I want this to go smooth with her so she will help out more)

Thanks Guys!

Ryan

 

Are the bolts rusted?

Before you bust out the bolt cutters try hitting it with the smoke wrench and then use a cheater bar if you have too.

I guess you could use bolt cutters if you have the proper replacement bolts but damn,that seems a bit barbaric.

 

I have only one word to say..............PB Blaster!! Loosens anything! Perhaps an impact gun? Rather than using a bolt cutter, why not try a die grinder and cut off disc....never fails for me and those rusty bolts. Usually when you buy an end-link kit it includes new bolts, spacer and grommets. I used the rubber grommets when we replaced ours, but I should have used the poly ones instead. And not to hijack, but perhaps add to this thread.....What good, or bad for that matter, would it do to increase the length of the tube spacer from 3 inches to 4 inches or more?

 

Cut the bolts, you get new ones with the kit. NPD is fine.

 

No hijack, thats a good question too!!

 

You want the bar"s arm to be close to horizontal with the car at rest, not slanting upward or downward. Too long of a spacer tends to overstress the endlink bushings (and the endlink bolt especially if its bushings are poly) when you hit a big bump.

It"s far more common to need slightly shorter than OE sleeves (aka spacers) due to suspension lowering or just old tired springs.


Norm

 

Sounds good Norm. I was curious, my fronts must be stock because they are almost too long since the front end hadbeen lowered.

Is it almost better not to jack up the car to keep the bar flat during install?

 

Weight resting on the wheels is necessary just to determine if the spacer lengths are correct. And if you"re being fussy, while shimming one of the endlink spacers with something like washers to take out any obvious preload that may be in the bar for whatever reason.

For bar installation, I"ve always used ramps of some sort just to get a little more room to work in. Either the "good" metal ones (with tie-bars between the back legs and the sloping portion) or a couple of 2 x 10 planks nailed together. For any maintenance/adjustment that car wasn"t so low that I couldn"t tighten the bolts with the wheels steered some.


Norm