coil springs
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 15
From:
coil springs
i was gonna change my spring seat bushings, so i went to oreilly's for a spring compressor...
the one in my restoration manual is much bigger. will this one blow up in my face???
[IMG]local://upfiles/84799/729B8A033BFA43DD8F0250D6D885944E.jpg[/IMG]
the one in my restoration manual is much bigger. will this one blow up in my face???
[IMG]local://upfiles/84799/729B8A033BFA43DD8F0250D6D885944E.jpg[/IMG]
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 877
From:
DO NOT USE THAT!!!!!!!!
an external type is the worst one to use. Here is some info from one of my web pages
Spring Compressors 101, Why use a bolt-in type?
- When removing a coil spring, it is required to compress the spring to free it from its designed location. Failure to safely deal with compressing the spring can result in serious injury or even death. There are three main ways to compress a coil spring to remove it: external claw type spring compressor, internal claw type spring compressor or a bolt-in type spring compressor.
- An external claw type spring compressor consists of two separate pieces that clamp onto the outside of the coil spring. As the nuts on the two pieces are tightened down, the spring is compressed. There are three main issues with this type of compressor. First, both sides need to be tightened an equal amount and, since each piece has its own tightening nut, this is easier said than done. Second, this type of compressor REQUIRES that the two separate pieces be opposite of each other. Unfortunately, the shock towers of a classic Ford do not allow the two pieces to be positioned completely opposite of each other, which creates an unstably compressed spring. Third, the claws of the compressor are held to the spring by tension from the compressed spring. If the claws slip, the spring can decompress violently. Many chose to use this type of compressor because they are inexpensive and can be purchased for less than $30.00.
- The second type of claw spring compressor is an internal unit, which has four claws (two at the top and two at the bottom) that grab an upper and a lower coil of the spring. One tightening nut pulls the two sets of claws closer together and compresses the spring. This compressor is much better for a Mustang than the above mentioned external claw type, however, it is still not the best option. There are two main problems with this type of system. First, often times on a classic Ford, a 3 to 4 inch spacer (usually a piece of pipe) is required to be positioned between the upper claw assembly and the tightening head to keep the compressor from bottoming out in the UCA. Secondly, as with the external claw type, the tension of the compressed spring is all that holds the compressor in place and, as before, if those claws slip, the spring can decompress violently.
- It was an internal claw type compressor that sent me to the emergency room in June of 2005. After already removing the passenger’s side spring, I was working on the driver’s side assembly, had compressed the spring and was in the process of removing it when the compressor slipped, the spring decompressed and pinned my right hand by the three middle fingers, palm side up, between the bottom of the coil spring and the spring perch. Engaging this type of compressor requires using two hands and, of course, I was alone, the garage door was down, my cell phone was on the passenger’s side fender out of reach and most of my tools, at least any that could have been effective in freeing my hand, were on the floor next to the passenger’s side where I had already pulled the suspension apart. All I had within arms reach was the ½†box wrench (no more than 6†long) that I had just used to remove the shock. I jammed the wrench in between the spring and the perch and was able to pry the spring up enough to get the finger next to my pinkie free. I then pried on the opposite side and got my index finger free. To get my middle finger out, I pried again with the wrench and pulled as hard as I could with the trapped arm and got my hand out. To make a long story short, I still have all my fingers and they still work, however, I occasionally feel some stiffness in the middle finger joints. I was lucky!!!!! Needless to say, it is my personal mission to convince everyone to use a bolt-in type compressor.
- The third type of spring compressor is the previously mentioned bolt-in type compressor. This compressor bolts to the spring perch and the top of the shock tower, just like a shock. Once the spring has been compressed, there is no way for it to come loose unless you intentionally decompress the compressor. The “down side†to this type of compressor is that in order to completely remove the spring, the UCA needs to be removed to get the spring out. This adds about 15 minutes to the task of changing springs, however, that 15 minutes is well worth the improved safety factor.
If you want to read the full article click here
Spring Compressors 101, Why use a bolt-in type?
- When removing a coil spring, it is required to compress the spring to free it from its designed location. Failure to safely deal with compressing the spring can result in serious injury or even death. There are three main ways to compress a coil spring to remove it: external claw type spring compressor, internal claw type spring compressor or a bolt-in type spring compressor.
- An external claw type spring compressor consists of two separate pieces that clamp onto the outside of the coil spring. As the nuts on the two pieces are tightened down, the spring is compressed. There are three main issues with this type of compressor. First, both sides need to be tightened an equal amount and, since each piece has its own tightening nut, this is easier said than done. Second, this type of compressor REQUIRES that the two separate pieces be opposite of each other. Unfortunately, the shock towers of a classic Ford do not allow the two pieces to be positioned completely opposite of each other, which creates an unstably compressed spring. Third, the claws of the compressor are held to the spring by tension from the compressed spring. If the claws slip, the spring can decompress violently. Many chose to use this type of compressor because they are inexpensive and can be purchased for less than $30.00.
- The second type of claw spring compressor is an internal unit, which has four claws (two at the top and two at the bottom) that grab an upper and a lower coil of the spring. One tightening nut pulls the two sets of claws closer together and compresses the spring. This compressor is much better for a Mustang than the above mentioned external claw type, however, it is still not the best option. There are two main problems with this type of system. First, often times on a classic Ford, a 3 to 4 inch spacer (usually a piece of pipe) is required to be positioned between the upper claw assembly and the tightening head to keep the compressor from bottoming out in the UCA. Secondly, as with the external claw type, the tension of the compressed spring is all that holds the compressor in place and, as before, if those claws slip, the spring can decompress violently.
- It was an internal claw type compressor that sent me to the emergency room in June of 2005. After already removing the passenger’s side spring, I was working on the driver’s side assembly, had compressed the spring and was in the process of removing it when the compressor slipped, the spring decompressed and pinned my right hand by the three middle fingers, palm side up, between the bottom of the coil spring and the spring perch. Engaging this type of compressor requires using two hands and, of course, I was alone, the garage door was down, my cell phone was on the passenger’s side fender out of reach and most of my tools, at least any that could have been effective in freeing my hand, were on the floor next to the passenger’s side where I had already pulled the suspension apart. All I had within arms reach was the ½†box wrench (no more than 6†long) that I had just used to remove the shock. I jammed the wrench in between the spring and the perch and was able to pry the spring up enough to get the finger next to my pinkie free. I then pried on the opposite side and got my index finger free. To get my middle finger out, I pried again with the wrench and pulled as hard as I could with the trapped arm and got my hand out. To make a long story short, I still have all my fingers and they still work, however, I occasionally feel some stiffness in the middle finger joints. I was lucky!!!!! Needless to say, it is my personal mission to convince everyone to use a bolt-in type compressor.
- The third type of spring compressor is the previously mentioned bolt-in type compressor. This compressor bolts to the spring perch and the top of the shock tower, just like a shock. Once the spring has been compressed, there is no way for it to come loose unless you intentionally decompress the compressor. The “down side†to this type of compressor is that in order to completely remove the spring, the UCA needs to be removed to get the spring out. This adds about 15 minutes to the task of changing springs, however, that 15 minutes is well worth the improved safety factor.
If you want to read the full article click here
Yukon Cornelius
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,812
From: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
RE: DO NOT USE THAT!!!!!!!!
are you going back with stock springs??
when i did mine i went back with 620 coils so i just cut the coil into pieces with a plasma cutter(could use a sawzall too) and let it fall out then the 620s just slipped into place without a compressor
when i did mine i went back with 620 coils so i just cut the coil into pieces with a plasma cutter(could use a sawzall too) and let it fall out then the 620s just slipped into place without a compressor
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,736
From: MD/WV
RE: DO NOT USE THAT!!!!!!!!
I took my passenger side out with a 2 piece external, but it was claw style, not clamps. Super scary!! I bought a internal claw type and I felt very safe using it. It was like 22$
Also, I took a short piece of chain and wrapped it through the coils. After I tighten the compressor about an inch, I'd tighten the chain about an inch. Just a precaution incase something slipped...
Also, I took a short piece of chain and wrapped it through the coils. After I tighten the compressor about an inch, I'd tighten the chain about an inch. Just a precaution incase something slipped...
This is the compressor I used.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 358
From:
RE: gotcha
That thing looks WAY scary and unstable. The ones we have at the Oreillys around here are external and have claws at top and bottom. Id trust them a lot more than those in the pic.
I meant the aforementioned clamp
I meant the aforementioned clamp
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 231
From: Texas
an external type is the worst one to use. Here is some info from one of my web pages
If you want to read the full article click here
If you want to read the full article click here